Beautiful Towns # 4 - Vlkolínec, Slovakia

Vlkolínec is a traditional mountain village of rustic log cottages found a few kilometres south of the Slovak town of Ružomberok. The village of 45 homes lies in the Velka Fatra mountains beneath a peak known as Sidorovo. The name of the village is most likely taken from the Slovak word "vlk" meaning "wolf", and may refer to a place where wolves were trapped. The earliest record of the village dates from 1376, and the settlement came under the administration of the town of Ružomberok in 1882. During the second world war the village was used as a base by Slovak partisans fighting the Nazis, and about one-third of the village was burned by the Germans during the fighting. In 1993 the village became a UNESCO heritage site on the basis of being a perfectly preserved example of a Carpathian mountain village with extensive folk architecture. Nowadays the cottages of the village remain much as they were a century ago, still without piped running water. A stream runs down the centre of the main street where a communal well made of logs provides a water source for the inhabitants. One of the most unique features that can be seen in the settlement is a wooden belfry that dates from 1770. There are also a number of wooden folk carvings of peasants in traditional costume set up as statues near the entrance to the village.

The village is best reached from the town of Ružomberok on a walk through the hills along marked trails that takes from 70 to 90 minutes depending on the trail you choose. There is no public transport access to the village, although it can be reached by car. There is a car park 100 metres below the village, as there is no tourist vehicle access into the village itself.

Wooden Churches # 2 - Miroľa, Slovakia

This wooden church is set in some of the most beautiful hilly countryside in eastern Slovakia. It sits on a slope above the village in front of a small cemetery and is visible from throughout the forested valley that surrounds the settlement. The present church was constructed in 1770, but it is thought that an earlier wooden church had stood in the same location in the village since the end of the 17th century. Dedicated to the Protector the Mother of God, the church is a typical three-part Lemko structure with three cupolas rising in height with the highest above the front entrance. Western design influences are apparent in the baroque style of the separate rooftops.

Life has not been easy for the local Rusyn residents, and many of them were forced to emigrate at the end of the 19th century to escape the poverty and poor living conditions of the time. During World War II many homes in the village were destroyed in the fighting for control of the nearby Dukla pass and the church was also badly damaged.

The interior of the church contains side icons in the Russian-byzantine style, while the iconostasis features some unusual images of the lives of peasants dressed in traditional costume placed in among the usual New Testament scenes. The entire iconostasis was restored in the 1970's by local experts.

The key for the church is kept by the family who live across the road, they are happy to open the temple for visitors and can give a demonstration of ringing the bell. It is expected that visitors will leave a donation of one or two Euros in front of one of the icons. The village is serviced only infrequently by bus, so walking in from the main Svidnik-Dukla road is a good option, as blue-marked forest hiking trails connect the villages which contain wooden churches together in a circular route. Bodružal, Príkra, Miroľa and Krajné Čierno can all be visited on an enjoyable day hike.

Beautiful Towns # 3 - Brhlovce, Slovakia

Brhlovce is a small Slovak village found a few kilometres east of the city of Levice. The village is remarkable for its collection of cave houses carved out of the face of a cliff, many of which are still inhabited today. One of the houses has been converted into a museum, which consists of a stone house with an enclosed courtyard and several rooms carved out of the cliff at the back of the courtyard. According to local belief, during the Ottoman invasions of the 16th and 17th centuries the villagers decided that they would try to 'hide' their homes in order to make them less visible to the invading Turkish troops. The soft volcanic-ash soil of the cliff-faces that surround the village were easy to carve out, and when the cave homes were completed they had the added advantage of being more easily defended than normal homes and more resistant to being burned down. The village is set in beautiful rolling countryside, and also features several folk cottages and a historic manor house. The village can be reached by bus from Levice, with several departures daily.

Slovakia's Most Unique and Unusual Experiences

Following the list of the top 100 places to visit in Slovakia, I thought it would be useful to add a list of some of the most unique and strange experiences it's possible to have in the country. These are in no particular order, this is just a set of some of the most unusual or typically Slovak activities.

- See a Kamzik (Chamois) among the peaks of the Tatra Mountains

- See the quirkiest examples of communist-era architecture, such as the Slovak Radio building, the Hotel Kiev basement lounge, the Mladá Garda student housing complex, and the Štefánik airport private diplomatic arrivals area (all in Bratislava)

- Visit the supposed "Centre of Europe" site in Kremnické Bane

- Sit on a WW2 Russian tank in the "Valley of Death" north of Svidník

- Go mushroom picking with a group of locals in the Low Tatras, Malá Fatra, or the Malé Karpaty mountain ranges

- See the annual folk festival in Východná

- Go to an ice hockey game in Trenčín, the country's hockey hotbed

- Jump over a campfire holding an axe

- Learn how to cook Bryndzové Halušky

- Drive or have a ride in a 1980's-era Škoda car

- Learn about the Slovak Robin Hood, the outlaw Juraj Jánošík, and stand next to his metal statue on the hill in Terchova

- Put a carp in your bathtub at Christmas time

- Carry one of the scales from a Christmas carp in your wallet to bring good fortune throughout the year

- Follow the former line of the Iron Curtain along the Morava river north of Devín, plenty of old fence posts, wire and bunker emplacements can be seen

- Visit Príkra, the smallest village in Slovakia, population 7. It's north of Svidník near the Polish border, and has an impressive wooden church.

- See and photograph the best communist-era murals found in the country's train stations

- Visit the terrific guitar museum in the far-eastern town of Sobrance

- Watch someone play a Fujara, or better yet, have a lesson and give it a try for yourself

- Attend the Festival of Ghosts and Monsters held at Bojnice Castle

- Watch or take part in the traditional custom of pig killing on a farm in Orava or Kysuce region

- Watch or take part in the high-speed hay-cutting championships (done in the traditional manner with a scythe) held in Terchová

- Learn to appreciate the fine taste of a glass of Kofola

- Hike along the Cesta Hrdinov SNP trail (National Uprising Trail of Heroes) to reach the Dukla Pass

- See an opera in the old opera house in Bratislava, or in the Košice opera house

- See a concert by local Slovak bands, I'd suggest Longital or Žive Kvety

- Hear a concert by the Slovak Philharmonic in Bratislava, world-class performances for a great price

- Hike to the peak on the border where Slovakia, Poland and Ukraine meet, north of Nová Sedlica in the far north-east corner of the country

- visit the Chatam Sofer Jewish memorial in Bratislava

- Sample some of the country's lesser-known beers, such as Martiner or Tatran

- Visit Luník IX, the Roma ghetto in a Košice suburb, to get a first-hand impression of the difficulties these people face in Slovak society

- Learn how to operate a communist-era Tatramat washing machine

- Watch a shepherd tending a flock of sheep or goats in the mountain pastures of Orava region

- See the Good Soldier Švejk statue at the train station in Humenné

- Visit the village and train station in Čierna nad Tisou, the end of the main train line on the Ukrainian border

- Wait for the bus at the Campbell's soup tin-shaped bus stop outside the Andy Warhol museum in Medzilaborce

- Visit the museum house in the village of Uhrovec where two major Slovak figures were born, L'udovit Štúr and Alexander Dubček

- See some of the collection of communist-era cars displayed by the Košice Trabant club

- Visit the Romanesque chapel in the village of Kopčany, the oldest church in the country, dating from the 9th century during the Great Moravian Empire

- Ride one of the old red-and-cream coloured Czechoslovak trams in Bratislava or Košice

Relics of Communism # 1 - Bratislava, Slovakia

This mural is found in the main hall of the central train station in Bratislava; most passengers pass quickly beneath it on the way to the platforms and don't pause to glance up and see it on the wall above.
The mural contains many of the classic hallmarks of socialist thought. Looking from left to right, on the far left the viewer can see three 'capitalists' in their business suits being driven away by the moral superiority of the group standing to their left beneath the red banner of socialism with doves flying above their heads. One of the capitalists is dropping a gun to the ground, suggesting that their agression towards socialism will be defeated in the end. All of the capitalists are portrayed in cowardly poses which symbolize their eventual defeat. A worker from the capitalist system (dressed in white) is being freed from the chains of his masters so that he can come to join the group on the left. The group beneath the red banner has three dominant figures, a proud steel mill worker holding tools, an intellectual holding a book, and the flag bearer who stands above them providing the foundation for the development of the new society that labour and learning will develop together in partnership. The group standing in a circle at the centre of the mural is composed of women from different countries around the world, implying that socialism is the system that will unite the world in peace and unity. On the right-hand side the viewer can see the symbols of technology and learning that will make the socialist utopia possible; at the top we can see a rocket and a satellite (which looks like Sputnik) representing the scientific advances that socialism has produced ahead of the capitalist world. Below these we see the scientists who have produced these ideas, as well as the students learning from them who will develop the technologies of tomorrow.

Beautiful Towns # 2 - Špania Dolina, Slovakia

The small historic village of Špania Dolina lies in a valley surrounded by forested hills and mountains a few kilometres from the central Slovak city of Banská Bystrica. Much of the town's character as a centre of medieval copper and silver mining has been carefully retained, with many impressive stone miners' houses dating from the 17th century. Several entrances to the mines have been preserved, including one with a small chapel where the miners would have stopped to pray for a safe working day before they descended down into the depths gripping a candle.
A special form of bell tower was used to call the miners to work each morning - a large flat piece of wood called a 'knocker' was struck with hammers to produce a loud sound that could be heard echoing throughout the village. This wooden bell tower has been restored to its original 16th century appearance.
A fortified gothic church dominates the centre of the settlement, perched on a hill with a steep covered staircase running up to it from the main square below. The church contains several frescoes and mural paintings which depict miners at work; this is a feature that is common in churches found in mining settlements from this period - the main churches in Rožňava, Slovakia, and in Kutná Hora, Czech Republic, also feature such mining images dedicated to the patron saint of miners, Saint Barbara.
The mines were closed in 1888 when the major copper and silver deposits ran out, but the village has tightly held onto its heritage and today is a popular outdoor tourism destination for Slovaks and Czechs. Wonderful hiking opportunities abound in the mountains that surround the village in all directions. It is also possible to rent a few of the historic cottages in order to spend the night in this atmospheric place. A particularly memorable experience is to climb the hilltop above the church just before dusk to enjoy the panoramic view. There is also a rustic village pub full of local characters to enjoy a beer in later on in the evening.

Slovakia's Top 100 Destinations

As a long-time Slovak resident, I've been to pretty much every corner of this small nation, from Skalica to Uličské Krivé and all points in between. I've tried to include a good mix of cultural, historical and natural sights, for this country has plenty to offer in all three categories, or everything except a sea, as the Slovaks themselves like to say. This list reflects each destination's appeal to the average tourist as well as including most of my own favourites. Enjoy!

1. The High Tatra Mountains - alpine peaks with hiking and climbing opportunities that rival anything in Europe. Wildlife spotting along the trails in some of the more remote parts of the park is almost guaranteed.

2. Spiš Castle - The nation's most spectacular castle, and one of the largest in central Europe. Now a ruin, it dominates the town of Spišské Podhradie from its position on a wind-swept hilltop. Spišská Kapitula is found on the hill opposite, a complex of churches and monasteries surrounded by old stone walls that adds a counterpoint to the castle's dominance of the landscape.

3. Banská Štiavnica - A medieval mining town that has managed to retain almost all of its splendour and unique character. Beautiful pastel-coloured buildings spread across a hillside, with two castles in their midst and a hilltop pilgrimage church within view.

4. Bardejov - A perfectly-preserved Saxon town centre, with a cathedral and town hall positioned on a cobbled main square of burgher houses covered in sgraffito facades. The town's set of medieval walls, towers and fortifications is nearly complete, making for a stunning view from the nearby hills.

5. Levoča - A small town par excellence, with a perfect set of medieval fortifications and small winding cobbled lanes. The world's largest wooden altar can be seen in the town's main church.

6. Bratislava - The capital and hub of the country's modern development. The old town quarter is a maze of small streets connecting several large cobbled squares. It has the best restaurants and pubs the country has to offer, and plenty of worthwhile museums. Socialist-era architecture surrounds much of the centre, but a few buildings from this period, notably the National Radio Building, are quirky enough to warrant taking a look at. The town's castle sits on a hill above the Danube, overlooking the UFO-topped SNP bridge, known locally as Nový Most.

7. Čičmany - A small mountain village of wooden houses with a unique twist - most of the dark log homes are covered from top to bottom in white geometric folk designs based on the local patterns used in lacework and traditional costumes.

8. Vlkolínec - A UNESCO heritage-listed mountain village of wooden cottages that has remained untouched by modern development. Spending a night in a cottage here is a highly memorable experience.

9. Orava Castle - perched on a tiny blade of rock which sits high above the Orava river, this is one of the country's finest restored castles. Guided tours will take you through most of the castle's rooms, with superb views from the upper castle windows.

10. Slovenský Raj National Park-A series of steep river canyons amid the forested mountains, this is one of the most unique places for hiking in the country. A series of ladders and metal grids stuck into the cliffs allow you to hike right up the side of crashing waterfalls and through gorges that are strikingly misty and green.

11. Bojnice Castle - A fairy-tale castle in the tradition of French Loire valley castles, with an annual Ghosts and Monsters festival

12. Ždiar- A small village at the eastern end of the Tatra mountains, a perfect base for hiking trips to the nearby peaks. The village has many traditional wooden homes that are beautifully decorated, and has preserved many elements of the unique Goral mountain-peasant culture found in the region.

13. Malá Fatra National Park- Some of the best hiking outside the Tatras, with Vrátna Dolina being the most popular location.

14. Kremnica- A small town in a wooded valley dominated by a castle at its centre with a memorable tower to climb. Watch for the instructions given at the bottom of the stairs warning of the 'pretentious stairs'. The national mint is found on the leafy square that sits below the castle, while the old stone walls that encircle the square make for an impressive sight when viewed from the nearby hills.

15. Košice- The country's second city, with the most easterly Gothic Cathedral in Europe. The main square features many perfectly restored 16th to 18th century buildings, and the 'singing fountain' which plays music in time to the movement of the water jets.

16. Krásna Hôrka Castle and Andrássy Mausoleum- A restored hill-top castle with a commanding view of the countryside. The nearby mausoleum is an art-nouveau masterpiece.

17. Devín Castle- A castle perched on a cliff above the Danube river near Bratislava.

18. Pieniny National Park - An ideal place to experience rafting on a traditional wooden raft, steered by oarsmen in traditional costumes.

19. Trenčín- A pretty settlement on the Váh river with a cliff-top castle that dominates the town.

20. Spišská Kapitula - found on the hill opposite Spiš castle, a complex of churches and monasteries surrounded by old stone walls that adds a counterpoint to the castle's dominance of the landscape.

21. Čachtice Castle- A hill-top castle ruin associated with the blood-thirsty deeds of the Countess Báthory.

22. Špania Dolina- A traditional medieval mining village just north of Banská Bystrica.

23. Spišská Sobota- Nowadays a suburb of Poprad, this village square is one of the finest in the Spiš region, with many well-restored merchant houses.

24. Kežmarok- A Saxon town in the Spiš region with an impressive castle and old town, and probably the finest Evangelical wooden church in the country.

25. Slovenský Kras Caves- This series of caves near Rožňava include the bizarre Argonite cave with unusual stone formations, and a chain of caves that run under the border into Hungary.

26. Piešťany- The country's finest spa town, popular with German and Austrian visitors. A man breaking his crutch after being treated with the healing waters is the town's symbol.

27. Banská Bystrica- A large town in the hills of central Slovakia, with a memorable main square and castle. The museum of the Slovak National Uprising details the struggle to free the country from Nazi occupation during World War II.

28. Strečno Castle- A cliff-top ruin on the Váh river, east of Žilina.

29. Andy Warhol Museum in Medzilaborce- One of the strangest places in the world to find a major art gallery, with many famous works by Warhol displayed. His parents came from a small village a few kilometres from the town.

30. Zuberec- A village in Orava region, this is a great base for hikes in the western part of the Tatras and has an outdoor folk museum of wooden homes and churches.

31. Beckov Castle- A mighty ruin dominating the small village below it, this castle is also associated with the Countess Báthory, accused of many grisly deeds.

32. Terchová- A small village in the Malá Fatra mountains that is famous as the home of the 'Slovak Robin Hood' hero Juraj Jánošík. His statue sits on a hill above the town. This is a great place to see traditional Slovak music and customs, as there is a major annual folk festival and many smaller events throughout the year. This is also a god base for hiking in the Vratná valley.

33. Bardejovské Kúpele- A spa town just north of Bardejov, with an excellent folk architecture museum containing two Greek-Catholic wooden churches.

34. Demänovská Valley - South of Liptovský Mikulaš, this is a major outdoor recreation area with hiking trails, winter skiing, and several unique caves.

35. Ladomirová - One of the finest Rusyn wooden churches in the country, found north of Svidník near the Polish border.

36. Danubiana Art Gallery in Čunovo- An art gallery at the end of Slovakia, or that's how it feels as you walk out to its island location in the middle of the Danube. Showcasing the best in Slovak modern art with regularly-changing installations and many international exhibitions.

37. Poloniny National Park- An untouched corner of the country in the far north-east, this region has excellent hiking and many traditional Rusyn villages to explore.

38. Nitra- 'The Mother of Slovak towns', as it is called here, has a castle on a hill at its centre with a history that dates back to the Great Moravian Empire and the arrival of the Saints Cyril and Methodius who created the Cyrillic alphabet.

39. Červený Kameň Castle- A square-sided castle in the Small Carpathians, it has huge corner towers that protected it through many invasions.

40. Dukla Pass World War 2 monuments- This region was heavily defended by the Germans, and thousands of Russian and Czechoslovak troops died trying to capture it. Today there is a viewing tower and huge memorial to the victors, and many tanks and military vehicles lie scattered across the surrounding landscape, left where they came to rest in the fighting and restored as a part of the memorial.

41. Hervartov - A small village south of Bardejov featuring a Roman Catholic wooden church, the oldest wooden church in Slovakia.

42. Betliar- A palace that has been superbly renovated, with an extensive collection of exotic items collected from around the globe. Large gardens and parks with a man-made waterfall surround the palace.

43. Plavecký Castle- A ruin found in the Small Carpathian range which is in very good condition.

44. Hronsek - A village between Zvolen and Banská Bystrica which contains an evangelical wooden church with UNESCO heritage status.

45. Pribylina Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum- A collection of wooden homes and a stone church and manor house with the Tatra mountains as a backdrop.

46. Smolenice Castle- A restored castle in the Small Carpathians, with a tall central tower.

47. Modra- An attractive small town famous for its wine production.

48. Trnava- A walled town nick-named 'The Slovak Rome' - although the name is a bit much to live up to, the town has many beautiful churches.

49. Miroľa - a small village north of Svidník featuring a fantastic Greek-Catholic wooden church.

50. Gýmeš Castle- A castle ruin east of Nitra, with great views.

51. Dobroslava - A village north of Svidník with a superb Greek-Catholic wooden church.

52. Skalica- A town near the Czech border with a pleasant old town and central square, and a Romanesque rotunda.

53. Východná - a town in the Tatra mountain region made famous by its annual folk festival.

54. Lietava Castle- A huge castle ruin south of Žilina.

55. Žilina - A large town with an enjoyable old town square and Budatín Castle on its outskirts.

56. Ruská Bystrá - A remote Rusyn village near the Ukrainian border featuring a UNESCO-listed wooden church.

57. Zvolen- A large town in central Slovakia with a well-fortified castle and a huge town square.

58. Detva - A small town known for its folk festival and preservation of folk traditions.

59. Stará Ľubovňa Castle- A half-ruin above the town of Stará Ľubovňa with a folk architecture museum on the grassy plain below.

60. Žehra - A UNESCO-listed church with a unique onion dome and inerior frescoes, found just south of Spiš castle.

61. Trenčianske Teplice- A spa town surrounded by forested hills with a relaxed atmosphere.

62. Podbiel- A village in Orava region that has a wonderful collection of traditional wooden folk cottages.

63. Brhlovce- A village east of Levice that contains several cave houses; the locals dug their way into the cliff faces around the town for protection from invaders, and several still remain today, including one that has been turned into a museum.

64. Bodružal - A village north of Svidník with a UNESCO-listed wooden church.

65. Svidník Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum- A collection of Rusyn farm buildings and homes, with one of the region's finest wooden churches.

66. Dobšiná Ice Cave- A cave south of the Slovak Paradise National Park.

67. Prešov-A major city of eastern Slovakia, with an impressive main square and several orthodox churches.

68. Komárno- A town along the Danube river with a large ethnic Hungarian population. It has a large fortress and the European square, featuring a set of buildings in many different national European architectural styles.

69. Osturňa- A small village north of Ždiar near the Polish border with many preserved wooden folk cottages.

70. Dobrá Voda Castle- A large castle ruin in the Small Carpathians

71. Nižný Komárnik - A village north of Svidník with an unusual wooden church.

72. Martin - A town featuring the National Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum, the main branch of the National Museum, and the National Cemetery.

73. Slovak Bethlehem Wooden Diorama in Rajecká Lesná- A diorama made entirely of wood that contains moving parts in the scene.

74. Dražovce - A beautiful Romanesque church on a hilltop north of Nitra.

75. Tvrdošín - A town in Orava region with a UNESCO-listed wooden church.

76. Lednický Castle- A ruin on a steep cliff-edge near the Czech border.

77. Svätý Kríž - A village in Liptov region with an Evangelical wooden church which was moved to its present location to save it when the Liptovská Mara reservoir was constructed.

78. Humenné Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum- A collection of Rusyn houses and a wooden church.

79. Likava Castle- A large castle ruin north of Ružomberok.

80. Rusovce - a village featuring a Roman Legion Camp Museum and a bizarre palace.

81. Topoľčianske Castle- A spectacular castle ruin with a tall central tower.

82. Budmerice Palace- An impressive palace west of Trnava.

83. Pezinok - A town near Bratislava that is famous for its wine festival.

84. Slovenská Ľupča Castle- A large restored castle east of Banská Bystrica.

85. Leštiny - A village in Orava region with a UNESCO-listed Evangelical wooden church.

86. Červený Kláštor Monastery- A monastery found in Pieniny national park, one of the oldest in the country.

87. Spišský Štvrtok - A town with a Romanesque church in Spiš region.

88. Tokaj Wine Region- Found in the far east along the Hungarian border, this region produces some of the country's best wines.

89. M.R. Štefáník Monument in Brezová pod Bradlom- A stone monument on a ridge built for a defining figure in Slovak history. Štefáník was instrumental in the creation of the Czechoslovak state after World War I.

90. Uličské Krivé - A small village near the Ukrainian border with a wooden church.

91. Hronský Beňadik Monastery- A town featuring a hill-top monastery.

92. Svätý Jur- a pretty small town near Bratislava with plenty of good wine on offer.

93. Hrabová Roztoka - a village near the Ukrainian border with a wooden church and several orthodox churches.

94. Vychylovka Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum - A set of wood and stone buildings and a forest railway in Kysuce region.

95. Šomoška Castle- A ruin sitting directly on the Hungarian border south of Lučenec.

96. Frička - a village north-west of Bardejov with a large wooden church.

97. Jasov Monastery- A monastery found west of Košice in a small town.

98. Strážky Palace- A white fortress-like palace north of Kežmarok.

99. Ruský Potok - A small village near the Ukrainian border with a well-restored wooden church.

100. Podolínec- A town north of Kežmarok with traditional Spiš-style architecture.

Wooden Churches # 1 - Ladomirová, Slovakia

I have a particular interest in the wooden folk architecture of the Carpathian mountains, particularly the Rusyn wooden churches found in Slovakia, Poland, Ukraine, and Romania. Each of these churches is architecturally unique, and distinct regional styles can vary enormously, from the three-steepled Lemko and Boyko churches of the northern part of the range in Poland and Slovakia, to the tall shingled steeples of Maramures region in Romania. I've visited almost 40 of these churches, including some from all four countries.

I will put up photos and a description of some of the most unique ones, so I'm starting today with the church in the village of Ladomirová, Slovakia, which is pictured here.

The Greek Orthodox Ladomirová church is a typical example of the Lemko style, with the three steeples arranged from highest to lowest with the highest closest to the door. The church was built in 1742, and endured significant damage during World War 2, as the nearby Dukla Pass was the scene of heavy fighting. Russian soldiers reportedly slept on the floor of the church during the conflict, and were given food by the local villagers. The key to the church is available from the family who live in the house immediately in front of the church; I was given a tour by a wonderful old woman who was full of stories and memories of the village as it changed through the course of the 20th century (This conversation was in Slovak, having someone with you who can translate her stories would add much to the experience). The iconostasis wall inside the church has many of the usual hallmarks of Lemko churches, including an image of the Last Supper beneath the image of Christ the Pantocrator. The village of Ladomirová is located 6 kilometres north of the town of Svidník, and there are several buses a day that run to the village from Svidník.

Beautiful Towns # 1 - Štramberk, Czech Republic

There are many fine small towns to see in the Czech Republic, but most of them have been well and truly discovered - Český Krumlov is now an essential stop for almost every visitor to the country, and the one place visitors usually see outside Prague. Other fine examples of small-town architecture include Telč in south Moravia, with a postcard-perfect town square, Loket (near Karlovy Vary) with hilly cobbled streets and a castle surrounded by a sharp river bend, and Mikulov (south of Brno) a pretty town to spend a day or two in to check out the wine industry (try the local white wines). However, these places have also begun to see foreign visitors and even tourgroups, so I would like to mention a town with heaps of charm which is still completely off the foreign tourist radar (lots of Czech tourists make the trip though). Štramberk, near Nový Jičín in north Moravia, is as memorable a place as any you can find in the Czech Republic. It's the sort of place you'll want to settle into for a relaxed day or two to soak up the vibe, as the town is especially atmospheric to walk around in the early morning or after sunset. It has the finest examples of traditional Vlach wooden architecture in Moravia with its array of tidy wooden cottages that spread across a hillside, and a tall red castle tower sticks out from the trees lining the crest above them. A pastel-painted square of bright buildings with curvaceous facades sits at the centre of it all, where locals sell the town's unique specialty, a sweet pastry called Štramberk ears. According to legend, the 'ears' are so named because they resemble the shape of the ears of captured soldiers from the Tatar raids. The best view of the town can be had from a hilltop in the direction of the train station when walking from the old square; a marked path leads off to the right and up through the forest. Standing at the top you'll see what I mean - the view of the town is so perfect you'll find yourself photographing it from every angle. Part of the way up the trail through the forest is a cave where bones of prehistoric humans have been found. There are many fine pensions and homestays along the main street heading to the train station, and in the back lanes of wooden cottages surrounding the square. Several restaurants serving Czech and Moravian specialties can be found around the main square. For backpackers, it is possible to make a day trip from Olomouc, which involves a train connection through Nový Jičín. The Poet's Corner Hostel in Olomouc is without doubt the best place to stay in that wonderful city.