Saturday, March 5, 2011

The Czech Republic's Top 100 Destinations




The Czech Republic is a country with an abundance of cultural and historical riches that warrant and reward extensive exploration. Visitors who spend just a few days in Prague before moving on to the next country are really just scratching the surface, there's so much more that this small Slavic nation has to offer. The list that follows contains what I consider to be the 100 most interesting destinations for tourists, taking into consideration a mix of cultural, architectural, historical and natural attractions.

1. Prague - A city that needs no introduction given its present status as one of the world's greatest tourist destinations. Some people feel it's become too popular for its own good, and I'd agree with that as far as the major routes through the old town and castle district are concerned, but take a stroll away from the tour groups by merely turning down a side street in Malá Strana or Hradčany and you can still see daily life going on just steps from the bustle of the tourist crowds. For a typical Czech experience, look beyond the historic centre to districts like Žižkov, Vinohrady or Holešovice for a place to enjoy local restaurants and pubs without the tourist prices. Experience the city to the fullest, but then be sure to get on a train and go out to see what the rest of the country has to offer, you won't be disappointed!

2. Český Krumlov - One of Europe's most beautiful small towns, featuring an array of medieval buildings which are virtually untouched by modern development. The town has by now been well and truly discovered, and this is the one place outside Prague that a significant number of foreign tourists visit. Don't let that put you off though, this is an essential stop on any tour of the country and a great introduction to the Rose towns of South Bohemia.

3. Olomouc - A major city in the region of North Moravia, Olomouc features an exceptionally pretty old town area centred around two cobbled main squares. This is a great place to experience city life in beautiful surroundings without the accompanying tourist crowds and prices.

4. Karlovy Vary - The largest of the Bohemian spa towns, Karlovy Vary is set in a deep forested river valley with a series of natural springs along the valley floor. It may largely cater to a well-heeled audience of Germans and Russians in search of snazzy and exotic health treatments, but there is plenty for the average tourist to see and experience.

5. Karlštejn Castle - One of the most dramatically impressive castles in the country when viewed from afar, though the interior is somewhat less remarkable. This was King Charles IV's place of retreat from the bustle of Prague, and he forbid women from entering. His wife Anna successfully entered the castle dressed as a man, a tale which became a hugely popular comedy in the 19th century and is still loved today. The castle is at its best at 9am when it first opens, before the tour groups start to arrive.

6. Telč - A perfect medieval square of arcaded 16th-century buildings makes Telč a great place to pause and sample provincial life for a while. Visiting in autumn when the carp ponds which surround the town are drained to harvest the fish provides a uniquely Czech experience.

7. Mikulov - A beautiful small town in South Moravia, found just a few kilometres from the Austrian border. A large chateau sits on a hilltop in the centre with the town spread out on the slopes surrounding it. This is a great place to experience the local Czech wine industry, the white wines produced here are particularly good.

8. Adršpach-Teplice Rock Towns - Huge slabs of stone rise vertically out of the forest in weird and wonderful shapes, making this one of the most interesting natural landscapes in the country. The area provides plenty of hiking opportunities.

9. Loket - A small town in West Bohemia which gives Český Krumlov a run for its money in terms of picturesque location, without the large tourist crowds of the latter.

10. Konopiště Castle - The former home of the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, this castle is stuffed with an extensive display of his hunting trophies and furniture. The highlight is the landscaped garden and views of the castle while on the walking trail around the lake.

11. Kutná Hora - A medieval silver mining town which had a population equal to London in the 14th century, Kutná Hora holds a clutch of superb monuments within its old town centre. In the nearby suburb of Sedlec, the ossuary (bone church) forms the main reason most visitors come here, which is to gawk at the downright bizarre sculptures and decorations made from human bones. The highlight is the chandelier, which includes at least one of every different bone in the human body.

12. Bohemian Switzerland National Park - Found in the far north of the country near the German border, this region is famed for its unique sandstone rock formations. The Pravčická Brána is the largest natural stone arch on the European continent and is probably the most impressive sight.

13. Křivoklát Castle - A large castle to the south-west of the capital, Křivoklát is probably my personal favourite of the 'big three' castles near Prague (together with Karlštejn and Konopiště). Set in wooded, hilly countryside, the castle looks spectacular when viewed from one of the surrounding hilltops.

14. Brno - The largest city in Moravia and the country's counterpoint to Prague, Brno features a lively and strollable old town centre with a hilltop castle and the chance to try out some of the nation's finest pubs.

15. Tábor - A pretty town in South Bohemia, Tábor gets far fewer visitors than it deserves. Its web of cobbled streets are fascinating to explore, and as a bonus there is the colourful Klokoty monastery to visit on the outskirts of town.

16. Mariánské Lázně - A spa which once hosted royalty from across Europe, today this small town continues to draw visitors with its healing waters and beautiful 19th-century architecture.

17. Štramberk - Probably my favourite small town in the country, with a collection of wooden buildings in the distinct Wallachian style spread across a hillside below the round castle tower known as Trúba.

18. Český Ráj - The best hiking within easy reach of the capital, with dramatic sandstone cliffs and formations that create a fascinating environment to trek through.

19. Hradec Králové - A large city in East Bohmemia, with a showpiece main square and an impressive old town. Across the river lies the new town, built in the interwar years in the distinctive Czech style known as Rondo-Cubism.

20. Terezín - Originally a Habsburg-era fortress town, Terezín was put to much darker use during WW2 as a Jewish ghetto used as a transit point en route to the Nazi concentration camps in Poland. A visit to the museum here is an essential stop on a historical tour of the country.

21. Moravian Karst - A landscape of limestone canyons and caves just north of the city of Brno.

22. Slavonice - A small town on the Austrian border with an exceptional collection of sgraffito facades in its two main squares.

23. Lednice - Part of the Lednice-Valtice complex once owned by the Lichtenstein family, the town features a chateau with impressive gardens and a 30-metre minaret to climb.

24. Rožnov Pod Radhoštěm - The finest Skansen (outdoor museum) in the country, with dozens of wooden buildings representing the typical traditional architecture of the mountainous Wallachia region.

25. Plzeň - A large city in West Bohemia which has the Pilsner Urquell brewery as its prime attraction. The Gothic cathedral in the central square has the tallest steeple in the country, which you can climb for a panoramic view.

26. Hluboká nad Vltavou - A mock-Gothic castle in South Bohemia which was supposedly redesigned to resemble England's Windsor castle.

27. Pernštejn Castle - A classic Gothic castle on a wooded hill found north-west of Brno.

28. Litomyšl - A small town in East Bohemia with a beautiful old town and the bizarre Portmoneum. It was also the birthplace of the Czech composer Bedřich Smetana.

29. Šumava National Park - This is the most pristine stretch of mountain wilderness in the country, making it a magnet for visitors who enjoy hiking and outdoor activities.

30. Třeboň - A small walled town in South Bohemia surrounded by a network of carp ponds. The old town core is one of the most architecturally complete in Bohemia.

31. České Budějovice - A large city in South Bohemia which produces the famous Budvar beer. Try a glass while sitting in the picturesque central square.

32. Moravský Krumlov - Home to the Slav Epic paintings by Czech artist Alfons Mucha in the town's chateau. The paintings may soon be moved to Prague, so take the opportunity to see them in their original home before they head off to the big city.

33. Znojmo - A picturesque town perched on the edge of a deep river valley, with impressive Romanesque frescoes in its old town area.

34. Jindřichův Hradec - A small town in South Bohemia with an impressive castle complex.

35. Vranov Nad Dyjí Castle - A castle perched on a clifftop near the Austrian border in South Moravia.

36. Krkonoše Mountains - The best skiing in the country is found here, along with the country's highest mountain, Sněžka.

37. Kokořín Castle - A 14th-century castle which sits among wooded hills and valleys to the north of Prague.

38. Litoměřice - A small town in North Bohemia with an old town containing many picturesque churches.

39. Valtice - The southern town of the Lednice-Valtice complex, featuring the palace which the Lichtenstein family once called home.

40. Kroměříž - A pretty town in South Moravia with a chateau and extensive landscaped gardens.

41. Pardubice - A city in East Bohemia which includes a large palace and old town square containing several buildings with highly decorative facades.

42. Prachatice - A small walled town in South Bohemia with impressive sgraffito facades in its old town centre.

43. Bouzov Castle - A huge Neo-Gothic castle not far from the city of Olomouc.

44. Mělník - A town in North Bohemia which is noted for its wine production as well as its castle perched high above the point where the Vltava and Labe rivers meet.

45. Ride of the Kings Folk Festival in Vlčnov - A folk festival in the Slovacko region of Moravia held each year in May.

46. Červená Lhota Castle - A renaissance-era castle in South Bohemia beautifully situated in the middle of a lake.

47. Liberec - A major city of North Bohemia with a splendid neo-renaissance town hall.

48. Trosky Castle - A castle perched on a narrow blade of rock at the edge of the Český Ráj region.

49. Zvíkov Castle - A striking medieval castle found in South Bohemia.

50. Zelená Hora Pilgrimage Church in Ždár Nad Sazavou - A unique star-shaped structure on a hilltop designed by Giovanni Santini.

51. Český Šternberk Castle - A Gothic castle sitting high above a river valley to the south-east of the capital.

52. The Broumov Walls - A series of sandstone cliffs and unusual rock formations in East Bohemia.

53. Bítov Castle - A hilltop castle located in South Moravia.

54. Svatá Hora Shrine in Příbram - A colourful Marian shrine on a hill in an otherwise drab industrial town in Bohemia.

55. Ještěd Tower - A socialist-era TV tower and hotel near the city of Liberec which has become one of the most recognisable symbols of the Czech lands, at least to the Czechs themselves.

56. Františkovy Lázně - The third of the major spa towns of West Bohemia, with pleasant architecture and a much more relaxed feel than Karlovy Vary.

57. Bezděz Castle - A Gothic ruin perched on a rocky outcrop in North Bohemia.

58. Podyjí National Park - A series or rolling hills and woodlands dotted with various castles and ruins, creating an ideal destination for hiking.

59. Kost Castle - A large castle sitting on top of a column of sandstone in the Český Ráj region.

60. Strážnice Folk Festival - The largest and most popular folk festival in the country, held each year in June.

61. Kuks - A collection of Baroque spa buildings with a fantastic collection of ornate statues.

62. Cheb - A town on the German border in West Bohemia with a beautiful old town centre and an imposing castle.

63. Kladruby Monastery - A Benedictine monastery containing a central church in Romanesque and Gothic style.

64. Orlík Castle - A 19th-century riverside castle with elegant interiors found in South Bohemia.

65. Wooden Churches of the Beskydy Region - Several impressive Roman Catholic wooden churches can be seen in far-east Moravia. The finest is in the village of Guty, near the Polish border.

66. Blatná Castle - A water castle surrounded by an artificial lake found in South Bohemia.

67. Rabí Castle - A large castle ruin in South Bohemia sitting above the village of the same name.

68. Rožmberk Nad Vltavou - A quaint village near Český Krumlov with a huge fortress on a narrow ledge of rock above the Vltava river.

69. Landštejn Castle - A ruined 13th-century structure located near the Austrian border.

70. Holašovice - A village of baroque-style folk architecture in South Bohemia.

71. Pelhřimov - A small medieval town east of Tábor with a well-preserved central square.

72. Domažlice - A pleasant town centred on a long and narrow central square found not far from the German border in West Bohemia.

73. Písek Bridge - An 11th-century stone construction which is even older than Prague's Charles Bridge.

74. Lidice Museum - A small museum which describes the WW2 events in which the Nazis burned the village of Lidice to the ground and shot the inhabitants or sent them off to concentration camps in retaliation for the assassination of Nazi leader Reinhard Heydrich.

75. Buchlov Castle - A Gothic castle in hilly countryside in South Moravia.

76. Jičín - A welcoming town with an arcaded central square and a renaissance palace found in East Bohemia.

77. Nové Město Nad Metují - A small town in East Bohemia with a chateau and perfectly preserved central square.

78. Pustevny - A mountaintop settlement of fairytale wooden cottages painted in bright colours in the eastern Beskydy region of Moravia.

79. Šternberk Castle - A large castle in the town of Šternberk found north of the city of Olomouc.

80. Třebíč - Features one of the most well-preserved Jewish ghettos in the country, as well as a Romanesque basilica.

81. Slavkov (Austerlitz Battlefield) - The location where in 1805 Napoleon's troops defeated the combined forces of Austria and Russia. Today there is a Peace Monument and a museum on the site.

82. Boskovice - A town north of Brno with a fine chateau, castle ruin, Jewish synagogue and a rather unexpected Wild West theme park.

83. The Grave of T.G. Masaryk in Lány - This village to the west of Prague is where the first President of Czechoslovakia is buried, and his grave is a place of pilgrimage for many Czechs. Nearby the grave site is the Czech presidential summer palace.

84. Veltrusy - A beautiful baroque chateau surrounded by gardens and a park north of Prague.

85. Kašperské Hory - A pretty little village in South Moravia which was once a German mining town. The highlights include an eye-catching renaissance town hall and an unusual motorcycle museum.

86. Velké Losiny - A small Moravian spa town featuring an impressive Renaissance-style chateau and a hand-made paper museum.

87. Strakonice Castle - A 13th-century fortress with a round tower in South Bohemia.

88. Broumov Wooden Church - Probably the finest wooden church in the country along with the one in Guty. This is the oldest one in the Czech Republic, dating from the 14th century.

89. Český Kras caves - A region south of the capital with a large number of caves, one of which is officially open to the public, the Koněpruské Jeskyně.

90. Žatec - A pleasant old town in North Bohemia with a museum dedicated to the hops industry and its role in beer production.

91. Nelahozoves - A village just north of Prague with a large chateau and the birthplace museum of the Czech composer Antonín Dvořák.

92. Nový Jičín - A town in north Moravia with an impressive central square with arcaded facades and a hat museum.

93. řip Hill - A hill north of the capital which legend claims was the place where the founding father of the Czech nation, Praotec Čech, declared all the territory which surrounded the hill as the Czech lands. There is a 12th-century rotunda at the top to visit, so climbing the hill is a popular patriotic activity for Czechs.

94. Helfštýn Castle - An excellent hilltop castle ruin in North Moravia, with great hiking in the surrounding hills.

95. Kadaň - A historic town in North Bohemia full of 18th-century buildings and a strikingly unique town hall.

96. Jihlava - An old silver mining town in South Moravia with an attractive old town centre.

97. Sázava - A small town featuring a chateau and an 11th-century monastery high on a plateau above the Sázava river.

98. Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou - A huge and colourful baroque chateau dominates this small town in south Moravia.

99. Kolín - A town to the east of Prague with a 13th-century Gothic church and a beautiful cobbled main square.

100. Náchod - A small town on the Polish border with a beautiful hilltop chateau.

Friday, February 11, 2011

Quirky and Unusual Sights # 2 - The Minaret in Lednice, Czech Republic






The Lednice-Valtice region was once the family home of the Lichtensteins, who began developing the complex in the 18th century. Many pavilions, fountains, statues, arches and castle ruins can be found spread over an area of several hundred square kilometres. In the 19th century the complex was further developed with many structures built between the family's palaces in the towns of Lednice and Valtice. The palace in Lednice is surrounded by a huge landscaped garden, the most unique and outlandish feature of which is the minaret, built in a Moorish-revival style in 1802. At 60 metres high, it was supposedly the tallest minaret outside the Muslim world at the time of its construction. In the early 19th century it was very popular for the European aristocracy to embrace exotic foreign cultures and artistic forms by having palace rooms decorated in Chinese, Japanese or Middle Eastern styles. One story of the minaret's construction claims that Prince Alois Lichtenstein had planned to construct a church in the town of Lednice, but his proposal was rejected by the local municipality. As an act of cheeky defiance, he ordered the construction of the minaret as a substitute. Its construction was led by the architect Hardmuth, who had a difficult task given the extremely swampy ground the structure is built on. This was overcome by driving wooden piles deep into the soil to act as a foundation. The minaret has a wide base structure with turrets and arcades lining the roof, all topped with a crescent moon symbol. The exterior of the lower floor is decorated with textual inscriptions from the Koran written in Arabic script. The lower floor contains eight rooms with Moorish designs painted on the walls. The main tower provides views over the Lednice castle gardens and as far south as Valtice and the Austrian border. Today it is used as a lookout tower and is a popular attraction for visitors to the Lednice palace.

The Lednice-Valtice area is a possible daytrip from Brno, Bratislava or Vienna. Local trains connect it to the nearby town of Břeclav, which is a major rail hub with regular trains to all the surrounding cities and international capitals. The Lednice-Valtice area can also be explored while staying in Mikulov, which is a lovely Czech town a few kilometres west of the region.

Folk Culture Destinations # 1 - Terchová, Slovakia






Terchová is a small town with a big role in Slovak folk culture. Found in northern Slovakia a few kilometres east of the city of Žilina, this was the birthplace of the national hero Juraj Jánošík, an early 18th-century Robin Hood figure who stole from the rich landholders and gave to the poor peasants while becoming a symbol of national resistance. Today a statue of Jánošík overlooks the town from a hilltop, while a small museum contains artifacts and details from his life as an outlaw. Several folk festivals of traditional dance and music are held each year in Terchová, as well as many other traditional cultural events. One of my favourites is the annual high-speed hay cutting championships held in late June. Competitors race to cut a patch of long grass in a field using a scythe in the traditional manner. There are individual time trials for male and female competitors, as well as team events where groups of five must cut larger areas of a field in the fastest possible time. Spectators sing folk songs about working in the fields to encourage the contestants, and they follow the action intensely, since bragging rights for an entire year are on the line. The competitors are mostly locals from Terchová and the surrounding villages plus a few Slovaks from other regions of the country. At the end of each round, the competitors are rewarded for their efforts with a shot of plum brandy and a team of older women dressed in traditional costumes comes out to clean up the freshly cut grass with rakes. An awards ceremony follows at the end of the day with prizes for the winners in each category, while everyone enjoys plates of goulash cooked in a giant kettle over a fire. This is a wonderfully unique event and a great cultural experience to enjoy.

Terchová is easily reached by bus from the city of Žilina, which is on the main train line running through the country with frequent connections to Bratislava and Košice as well as several trains daily to Prague. There are a number of small hotels in Terchová and lots of guesthouses, I've stayed at the Penzion Furmanec several times, but there are many more, including the Penzion Goral, Penzion Terchová, and Penzion Montana.

Wooden Churches # 4 - Šemetkovce, Slovakia






This pretty little church is found on a small wooded hill above the village of Šemetkovce in the Svidník region of eastern Slovakia. It is a Greek-Catholic church named for St. Michael the Archangel, and dates from the year 1752. Like most wooden churches in the region, the structure was built without the use of metal nails using an ingenious woodcut pattern with wooden pegs inserted at the end of each log to hold the beams in place. Another typical feature of Greek-Catholic churches which is found in the Šemetkovce church is the emphasis placed on the number three, symbolising the Holy Trinity. Three domes, three crosses, three rooms in the interior and three doors leading below the iconostasis are all typical features. The three domes rise in height from east to west, with the doorway facing west, also a typical feature of Greek-Catholic design. The iconostasis is of baroque style, designed in the late 18th century, while some of the icons date from the 17th century. The church was badly damaged in World War Two, and extensive reconstruction work was undertaken in 1969 and 1970, and further renovations were necessary in 2001. Standing next to the church there is a tall wooden belfry with bells that are rung daily. The church and belfry were originally surrounded by a log fence, though today there is a more modern metal fence.

The village of Šemetkovce is set in lovely hilly scenery and has a few old-fashioned folk cottages along its laneways. The village can be reached by bus from Svidník just a few times a day from Monday to Friday, and there are no buses on Saturday or Sunday. Another option if you are without your own vehicle is to take the bus from Svidník to Ladomirová (be sure to stop and see the wooden church in that village as well) and then try to hitch-hike the last seven kilometres to Šemetkovce. That's how I did it when I visited, there were no problems getting a lift from some of the locals since the roads are small and everybody knows everybody else in this region.
There are hiking trails which connect together many of the villages with wooden churches in the Svidník region, and it is possible to hike from Šemetkovce across to Kožuchovce village, close to Miroľa village with its wonderful wooden church.

Relics of Communism # 3 - Prague, Czech Republic


In the Royal Garden next to Prague Castle, not far from the Royal Summer Residence, you will find the Royal Ball Game Hall. This building dates from the 16th century and was used by the king's courtiers for sporting activities. The structure was damaged by fire in May 1945 during the last stages of World War Two, but it was fully rebuilt in the 1950's. Along with the many mythological deities that were carefully restored on the facade, a small addition was made that remains as a quirky reminder of the communist period. A figure unfurling a scroll meant to be a five-year plan with a hammer and sickle was included in the design, together with the letters 'ČSR', for Czechoslovak Socialist Republic. This is a detail that you have to look closely to find (it's along the top row of the facade near the roof), so be sure to stop and take a closer look if you are visiting Prague Castle.

Sign Spotting # 3 - Čičmany, Slovakia


This menu qualifies as a vegetarian's worst nightmare - this is the vegetarian section, yet practically every item has some kind of meat in it. Bacon, sausage, ham... still vegetarian. It's a common sight in restaurant menus in rural parts of Slovakia, since a dish that contains meat but not as the primary ingredient is often still considered to be a 'vegetarian' option. Show this to any vegetarians you know to give them a fright... :)

Classic Castles # 2 - Gýmeš, Slovakia






This large castle ruin sits on a wooded hilltop above the village of Jelenec in the Tribeč mountains, about 20 kilometres north-east of the city of Nitra. The current structure dates from around 1270, when it was constructed as a Gothic palace, although it was built on the site of an earlier fort. The first owners were the Forgách family, who controlled the castle for several centuries. A peasant revolt against worsening living conditions and increased taxes in 1610 had to be suppressed by force by the Forgáchs. The Ottoman Turkish armies conquered the castle in 1530 and caused significant damage to it, and it was conquered again by the Turks in 1663. Following this period it was fully reconstructed and it remained in use up until the mid-19th century, when it was abandoned and slowly fell into ruin. Today many parts of the structure remain intact, including several tunnels, standing arches and a chapel. The castle is slowly being reclaimed by the forest, and large trees are growing all through the structure.

The castle can be reached on foot following the walking trail from the village of Jelenec, it's about a one hour walk up through the forest. Another access point is from the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom, which is considerably closer to the castle and has a path leading there that requires a hike of about 45 minutes. In the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom there is an another worthwhile attraction to stop and see, the 11th century Romanesque church of St. George, which features design elements typical of the Great Moravian Empire period. Both Jelencec and Kostoľany pod Tribečom are accessible by bus from Nitra, with regular buses stopping in Jelenec which is near the main road heading east towards Banská Bystrica.

Natural Wonders # 1 - Bohemian Switzerland National Park, Czech Republic






The Bohemian Switzerland National Park is a region of stunningly sculpted sandstone cliffs and towering columns of rock punctuated by deep, forest-covered canyons. Located in the north of the Czech Republic along the German border, the name for the park was coined by 19th-century artists who appreciated its romantically unique atmosphere (even though the non-alpine landscape doesn't resemble Switzerland). A major highlight of the park is the Pravčická Brána, a natural stone arch which is the largest on the European continent. Directly below the arch is the Falcon's Nest, a 19th-century chateau which now features a small museum about the park as well as an excellent restaurant with great views from its balcony. An entrance fee is charged to get close to the arch, but it's well worth the price for the chance to climb the series of stairs that leads to the view point above the arch on the opposite cliff face. From there you can look back all along the valley to see the many sandstone outcrops that rear up out of the forest floor at regular intervals.

A great day hike begins in the village of Mezní Louka, which is accessible from the city of Děčín by bus (Děčín can be reached by regular train from Prague). From Mezní Louka, a red-marked trail leads up to the foot of the sandstone cliffs and along a ridge with spectacular lookout points on rocky promontories. After 4.5 kilometres of walking, you will see the arch of Pravčická Brána appear above you on the sandstone plateau. It's a short climb from there to reach the Falcon's Nest chateau. After you've had time to walk below, beside, and above the arch and enjoy a meal on the terrace of the restaurant, you can continue further west along the red trail, which heads down a steep valley with many shallow caves lining the cliffs. You will come to the main road through the park after 2.5 kilometres, from where you can catch a returning bus to Děčín. Alternatively, continue walking west along the road on the red trail for another 2.5 kilometres until you reach the border village of Hřensko, a pretty settlement of timber-built houses that sits in a sandstone canyon surrounded by tall pinnacles of stone. Another worthwhile route involves heading south-east from Hřensko along the narrow canyons of the Kamenice river gorge. It's possible to continue by raft along the river through the tightest stretches of the gorge, where the cliff walls are just five metres apart while they extend upwards above you by over 100 metres.

The park can be visited as a long daytrip from Prague by taking a train to Děčín and then a bus from outside the train station to Hřensko or Mezní Louka. It's worth staying for two or three days to get a chance to fully experience the park, and there are regions to the west of Děčín with further sandstone formations which are equally impressive as those inside the park.

Panoramic View # 1 - Hradec Králové, Czech Republic





Climbing a church tower for a panoramic view is a common part of sightseeing in central Europe, nearly every town of note has a tower which is open for visitors to climb. Scaling the hundreds of steps to the top is often a challenge, and sometimes you have to pass directly next to or under a giant bell that may begin to ring at the exact moment you are passing.

The bell tower in Hradec Králové, known as the 'White Tower', is 71 metres high, and contains the country's second-largest bell. The 16th century tower also features an unusual clock face with a long hand that tells the hour, and a shorter hand that tells the minute. Standing on the observation platform at the top gives a dramatic view over the old town square and the surrounding streets featuring many buildings with gothic, renaissance and baroque facades. Outside the old town and across the river is the new town, composed of buildings constructed between the two World Wars in the Rondo-Cubist style by such architects as Josef Gočár and Jan Kotěra. Beyond this in the distance you can see socialist-era architecture which is typical of the region's larger cities.

Hradec Králové is a worthwhile day trip from Prague or Olomouc, but the city also provides access to the Krkonoše mountains and the Ardšpach-Teplice rock cities to the north, so using it as a base for a few days is also a good option.

Wooden Churches # 3 - Frička, Slovakia





This church stands on a small hill in the centre of the village of Frička, in a remote corner of eastern Slovakia close to the Polish border. The church is dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, who is present in several of the icons that grace the interior. The iconostasis dates from 1830, while most of the icons are from the late nineteenth century. The ceiling of the nave is decorated with a colourful painting of St. Trinity, completed in 1933 by a local artist from the city of Prešov. The tower contains three different bells, the oldest from 1697. The church is surrounded by a low wooden fence and contains an entrance gate which is typical of the Rusyn churches of the region.

The church was fully renovated inside and out in the spring and summer of 2010, returning the structure to its original appearance. The use of a coating of protective varnish on the wood surface of the exterior has been criticised by some historians as not in keeping with the pledge to preserve the original integrity of the building, and this coating will not be used in other renovation projects of Rusyn churches in Slovakia (although it has already been used in the restoration of the church in Potoky). However, the varnish does give a very impressive appearance to the wood because of its shiny finish.

Frička is one of the most isolated villages in the region, but it can be reached by bus from the town of Bardejov with a few connections per day. It is also possible to follow a trail that leads up and over the hill into Poland, as the border is less than one kilometre from the village.

Sign Spotting # 2 - Bratislava, Slovakia


This sign can be seen in Bratislava in Mlynske Nivy street, which is close to the central bus station. I can't be certain exactly why they've chosen "Witch Style" as the name of their beauty salon, but it certainly made me look twice. I suppose every year at Halloween they get some extra business... :)

Cars of Socialist Czechoslovakia # 1 - The Škoda MBX 1000


Škoda is now the largest car manufacturer in the Czech Republic, but during the socialist era they produced the people's car of Czechoslovakia. The word 'Škoda' literally means 'pity', which appears to be a highly poor choice by the marketing department until you consider that the company founder was one Emil Škoda. Based in the city of Mlada Boleslav, Škoda auto began producing cars in the early 1900's and by the time of the Second World War it was a major international player with a strong reputation. The socialist years forced the company to focus more on production quotas than innovative new designs, but the company still produced many vehicles that were well-regarded throughout Europe. The model shown in the picture here is a Škoda MBX 1000, produced in 1966 (The MBX stands for Mlada Boleslav Deluxe). This was one of the most successful models of the communist era, and many can still be seen on the road today. It had a rear-engine and rear-wheel drive design, which was still quite common among other European manufacturers of the time. It featured a 988cc four-cylinder engine, and had 44 bhp. Its top speed was 120km/h (75mph). These models were produced for domestic consumption as well as for export abroad, and many were sold in Britain.

Classic Castles #1 - Kokořín, Czech Republic





This gothic castle is located 60km north of Prague in a region called Kokořínsko, an area of thickly wooded hills and valleys featuring sandstone cliffs and strangely-shaped rock formations. The region is a popular place for hiking, as many marked trails wind through the dense forests. The castle sits on a steep rocky outcrop overlooking the green valley below. The earliest mention of the structure is from 1320, when a fortress carved out of the surrounding sandstone was constructed. By the 16th century the castle was in poor condition, and was placed on a list of structures that were not to be maintained by the Czech state. Legends describe how the castle was then occupied by robbers and bandits such as Petrovsky of Petrovice who used it as a base from which to terrorize and pillage the region. In the 19th century the castle was left in ruins, but its isolated location and gloomy atmosphere brought it to the attention of a generation of Czech Romantic poets and painters such as K.H. Macha and Josef Manes, for whom the fortress was a source of great inspiration. The castle was purchased in 1895 and reconstructed over the next two decades by Václav Špaček, who wanted to make the structure into a family memorial. This refurbishment marked the first time a castle in the Czech lands was restored to its historical appearance. Today the castle has been returned to the ownership of the Špaček family, who intend to keep it open to the public as a museum.

A guided tour will take you through the exhibits of the interior, and it is also possible to buy a ticket to climb the tower and battlements. The second option is a more rewarding choice as the exhibits on display are less memorable than the views from the castle walls.

The best way to reach Kokořín from Prague using public transport is to take a bus from Praha-Holesovice station to the town of Mělník (which is worth spending time in as well), and then changing to another bus to the village of Kokořín. The bus will drop you in the centre of the village, and from there the castle is 1.5 kilometres further along the road and then down a forest path.

Quirky and Unusual Sights # 1 - The Andy Warhol Museum in Medzilaborce, Slovakia






In a remote corner of eastern Slovakia stands one of the country's stranger places of interest - the Andy Warhol Museum in the town of Medzilaborce. Andy Warhol (whose real name was Andrej Warchola) was born in Pittsburgh, USA, but his parents originally came from the small Rusyn village of Miková, 17km north-west of Medzilaborce. After fame and fortune arrived, Warhol never publicly spoke about his Slovak/Rusyn origins, even though he could speak Rusyn fluently. He always claimed that he "came from nowhere". The museum was founded in 1991 by members of Warhol's family, despite strong criticism from the conservative local community at the time. Many neighbouring residents wanted nothing to do with a decadent American artist and his images of blatant capitalist excess. The townsfolk were later won over by the potential of the museum to attract tourist visitors, and today the museum sits in Andy Warhol square (formerly Lenin square), and a Warhol soup tin-shaped bus stop shelter faces the road in front of it. Mural paintings of Warhol's silkscreen designs can also be seen on the sides of several buildings in the town.
Medzilaborce is best reached by train from the town of Humenné, which has transport links to most parts of the country. Local buses run between Medzilaborce and Miková a few times per day.

Sign Spotting # 1 - Kremnica, Slovakia


This sign is found at the foot of the staircase leading up into the castle tower in Kremnica in central Slovakia. Read what it says carefully - while climbing the stairs it appears to be necessary to discuss obscure indie bands and new-age philosophy...