Wooden Churches # 6 - Potoky, Slovakia

The tiny village of Potoky, near the town of Svidník in the north-eastern part of Slovakia, contains a beautiful example of the Lemko-Rusyn style of architecture. The church, dedicated to Saint Paraskieva, was originally constructed in 1773. A large bell tower was built in front of the church at a later date, and it contains a bell cast in 1839. The most unique feature of the church is the height of the three narrow steeples, since they are significantly taller than those found on most of the other wooden churches in this region. In keeping with Rusyn building customs, the tallest steeple and the front entrance face towards the west. Unfortunately the original interior of the church, including the wall paintings, icons and the iconostasis, have not survived to the present day. A modern replacement of the iconostasis was added during restoration work conducted in 2010, but the appearance is thoroughly modern and lacks the traditional appearance of Greek-Catholic church interiors. The exterior wooden shingles and wall panels were also restored in the summer of 2010, with the finished wood being treated with a preserving coat of brown varnish. This remains a controversial point among conservationists who feel that the churches of the region should be restored and left in their traditionally intended form with untreated wood. The original plans for the church site included a low stone wall that surrounded the church and the bell tower, and this feature was also restored during the renovations of 2010. An electronic device was added to the bell tower which automatically rings the bell twice daily without the need for human involvement. Potoky is off the main road between Svidník and Stropkov, making it rather difficult to reach by public transport directly. A few buses from Svidník head to the village daily, with fewer operating on Saturdays and Sundays. Many more buses follow the Svidník to Stropkov main road, and it is possible to take one of these buses and ask to be dropped off at the turnoff towards Potoky and then walk the remaining two kilometres in along the road to reach the church. To see the interior of the church you will need to find the key keeper in the village. The family which has it lives in a house on the same side of the road as the church, three houses further along the road from the church when you are coming from the beginning of the village.

Classic Castles # 3 - Krásna Hôrka, Slovakia

This large and fully intact Gothic castle sits on top of a rocky limestone hill above the small village of Krásnohorské Podhradie in south-eastern Slovakia. Built to protect the trade route running north from the Hungarian plains into the Spiš region, the castle has an ideal defensive position and appears to be virtually unconquerable when viewed from a distance. The first written record of the castle dates from 1333, when it was owned by the Bebek family. During the Turkish invasions of the mid-16th century, the family fortified and enlarged the structure in order to boost its already impressive defensive capabilities. The Bebeks occupied the castle until they were discovered to be counterfeiting currency (and supporting Protestantism) in the late 16th century, whereupon they were unceremoniously turfed out and the castle fell into the hands of the powerful Andrássy family. In 1910 the Andrássys owned enough properties in the region that Krásna Hôrka wasn't needed as a place of residence, so they decided to convert it into a family museum. Today the castle appears much as it did a century ago and the guided tour of the interior takes in lavishly decorated rooms full of artifacts and furniture collected by the Andrássys. Outside on the hill that surrounds the castle goats and sheep wander and graze on the grass, while the bells around their necks make a tinkling sound which adds a rustic soundtrack to the pretty pastoral setting. The village of Krásnohorské Podhradie is located on the main road between the city of Košice and the former medieval mining town of Rožňava. While you are in the village don't miss having a look at the Andrássy family mausoleum, a fantastic Art Nouveau building constructed in 1904 by Dionysus Andrássy in memory of his wife Františka, a Czech opera singer. Most buses travelling between Košice and Rožňava stop in the village, so it is quite easy to reach by public transport. There are several accommodation options and quality restaurants to choose from in Rožňava, so it makes a suitable base to explore the surrounding region's castles, caves and other attractions.

Natural Wonders # 2 - Adršpach-Teplice Rock Towns, Czech Republic

The fantastical rock formations of Adršpach-Teplice are undoubtedly one of the most unique natural attractions the Czech Republic has to offer. Tucked away in a quiet corner in the north of the country near the Polish border, the two 'rock cities' receive far fewer international tourists than they deserve. There are several different locations scattered around the Czech Republic which can boast bizarre limestone rock formations (The Czech Paradise, Bohemian Switzerland National Park, Kokořinsko) but those found near the small villages of Adršpach and Teplice nad Metuji are probably the most impressive when taken as a whole.

To give an idea of the scale and appearance of these 'rock cities', imagine walking through a canyon just a few metres wide where pinnacles of stone rise like office towers on all sides, some of them reaching up more than 25 metres with trees clinging to their sides. A unique ecosystem exists in these clefts between the massive stones, attracting large ferns and unusual plant formations which thrive in the cold, damp environment. The paths along the canyon floors will lead you across tiny streams, past raging waterfalls and up and down a series of metal ladders attached to the rocks. The stone formations that tower above you often have shapes that resemble objects or human figures, hence they have been given colourful names such as 'The Dwarf', 'The Lovers', 'The Mayor and His Wife', 'Smetana Playing the Piano', 'Grandma's Armchair', 'Goethe's Table', and 'Butcher's Axe'. The trails are well-marked and don't involve any difficult climbing or scrambling, so people of all ages can be seen walking among the stone formations. Between the two rock cities there is a small lake where rafts are waiting to ferry visitors across to the other side. The oarsmen who steer the boats sing traditional songs and tell jokes to entertain the passengers during the crossing. One of the most memorable portions of the trail is the region called 'Siberia' in the Teplice rock city. The name is fully appropriate since this is the coldest and narrowest of the canyons, with blades of rock soaring up on both sides so that little light reaches the path floor. Ferns grow out from every surface reaching for the sun far above.

It is possible to see the best stone formations in both rock cities in a long day if you start early enough. Both are equally worth visiting, though perhaps Adršpach has a slightly more impressive set of geological oddities. A route starting from the train station in Adršpach leads past a small lake and then follows a green-marked path into a pine forest before emerging in a grove with the first of the formations. A circular loop path takes in the best of the Adršpach rocks and can be completed in one or two hours depending on your pace. A yellow-marked path connects the two rock cities, while a blue-marked trail makes a loop that includes the highlights of the Teplice formations. Along the Teplice trail it is worth making a diversion up a series of steep ladders to see the remains of a rock fortress called Střmen which was built by Hussite soldiers. An ideal place to finish a walk is at Teplice nad Metuji Skaly, where there is a train station as well as a number of good restaurants and hotels. A plentiful assortment of accommodation and eating options can also be found in the village of Adršpach. The rock cities are typically packed with Czech, Polish and German tourists during the peak summer months, but if you can visit in the off-season times of early spring or late autumn you'll be able to experience the walk with less waiting time at ladders and narrow sections of the canyons. Visiting in winter is also possible, when the canyons take on a completely different appearance under a heavy blanket of snow.

Sign Spotting # 4 - Litomyšl, Czech Republic

I found this rather cryptic message on a sign in the parking area outside a hotel in the Czech town of Litomyšl. The English part of the sign might be trying to declare an ominous prophecy of doom and misfortune for anyone who stays in the hotel, though I'm sure this isn't what they had in mind. I think their intention is to say that parking restrictions are not applicable to hotel guests, since the sentence above written in German says "It does not apply to hotel guests". The line below in Czech simply says that the parking area is monitored. It's sometimes hard to believe that companies don't check translations carefully with a native speaker of the language before using them on signs and in advertising, but it certainly brightens my day and gives me a chuckle when I come across humourous examples like this one.

Wooden Churches # 5 - Ruská Bystrá, Slovakia

This small Greek Catholic wooden church is found in the tiny village of Ruská Bystrá, located in a remote region of eastern Slovakia a few kilometres from the Ukrainian border. The church has been inscribed on the UNESCO world heritage list, largely because of its extremely well-preserved iconostasis paintings and icons. The Baroque iconostasis dates from the 18th century, while the Czar door at the centre of the panel is from the 17th century. The highly decorative door has small round paintings depicting scenes from the lives of four evangelists and an image of the annunciation. An unusual feature is that the side icons are placed on the walls because of the narrow space for the iconostasis panel. The church is a three-roomed structure with a high sloped roof which is also unusual for this type of Greek Catholic design. The nave is divided from the entrance room by a wall of wooden beams which is decorated with carved columns. The key for the church is kept by the family who live in the house opposite the pub in the centre of the village. When visiting churches like these you should always leave a donation of a few Euros in front of the icons. Ruská Bystrá is quite difficult to reach by public transport, but there are two or three buses per day from the town of Michalovce, which has frequent train and bus connections to Košice and the rest of the country.

The Czech Republic's Top 100 Destinations

The Czech Republic is a country with an abundance of cultural and historical riches that warrant and reward extensive exploration. Visitors who spend just a few days in Prague before moving on to the next country are really just scratching the surface, there's so much more that this small Slavic nation has to offer. The list that follows contains what I consider to be the 100 most interesting destinations for tourists, taking into consideration a mix of cultural, architectural, historical and natural attractions.

1. Prague - A city that needs no introduction given its present status as one of the world's greatest tourist destinations. Some people feel it's become too popular for its own good, and I'd agree with that as far as the major routes through the old town and castle district are concerned, but take a stroll away from the tour groups by merely turning down a side street in Malá Strana or Hradčany and you can still see daily life going on just steps from the bustle of the tourist crowds. For a typical Czech experience, look beyond the historic centre to districts like Žižkov, Vinohrady or Holešovice for a place to enjoy local restaurants and pubs without the tourist prices. Experience the city to the fullest, but then be sure to get on a train and go out to see what the rest of the country has to offer, you won't be disappointed!

2. Český Krumlov - One of Europe's most beautiful small towns, featuring an array of medieval buildings which are virtually untouched by modern development. The town has by now been well and truly discovered, and this is the one place outside Prague that a significant number of foreign tourists visit. Don't let that put you off though, this is an essential stop on any tour of the country and a great introduction to the Rose towns of South Bohemia.

3. Olomouc - A major city in the region of North Moravia, Olomouc features an exceptionally pretty old town area centred around two cobbled main squares. This is a great place to experience city life in beautiful surroundings without the accompanying tourist crowds and prices.

4. Karlovy Vary - The largest of the Bohemian spa towns, Karlovy Vary is set in a deep forested river valley with a series of natural springs along the valley floor. It may largely cater to a well-heeled audience of Germans and Russians in search of snazzy and exotic health treatments, but there is plenty for the average tourist to see and experience.

5. Karlštejn Castle - One of the most dramatically impressive castles in the country when viewed from afar, though the interior is somewhat less remarkable. This was King Charles IV's place of retreat from the bustle of Prague, and he forbid women from entering. His wife Anna successfully entered the castle dressed as a man, a tale which became a hugely popular comedy in the 19th century and is still loved today. The castle is at its best at 9am when it first opens, before the tour groups start to arrive.

6. Telč - A perfect medieval square of arcaded 16th-century buildings makes Telč a great place to pause and sample provincial life for a while. Visiting in autumn when the carp ponds which surround the town are drained to harvest the fish provides a uniquely Czech experience.

7. Mikulov - A beautiful small town in South Moravia, found just a few kilometres from the Austrian border. A large chateau sits on a hilltop in the centre with the town spread out on the slopes surrounding it. This is a great place to experience the local Czech wine industry, the white wines produced here are particularly good.

8. Adršpach-Teplice Rock Towns - Huge slabs of stone rise vertically out of the forest in weird and wonderful shapes, making this one of the most interesting natural landscapes in the country. The area provides plenty of hiking opportunities.

9. Loket - A small town in West Bohemia which gives Český Krumlov a run for its money in terms of picturesque location, without the large tourist crowds of the latter.

10. Konopiště Castle - The former home of the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, this castle is stuffed with an extensive display of his hunting trophies and furniture. The highlight is the landscaped garden and views of the castle while on the walking trail around the lake.

11. Kutná Hora - A medieval silver mining town which had a population equal to London in the 14th century, Kutná Hora holds a clutch of superb monuments within its old town centre. In the nearby suburb of Sedlec, the ossuary (bone church) forms the main reason most visitors come here, which is to gawk at the downright bizarre sculptures and decorations made from human bones. The highlight is the chandelier, which includes at least one of every different bone in the human body.

12. Bohemian Switzerland National Park - Found in the far north of the country near the German border, this region is famed for its unique sandstone rock formations. The Pravčická Brána is the largest natural stone arch on the European continent and is probably the most impressive sight.

13. Křivoklát Castle - A large castle to the south-west of the capital, Křivoklát is probably my personal favourite of the 'big three' castles near Prague (together with Karlštejn and Konopiště). Set in wooded, hilly countryside, the castle looks spectacular when viewed from one of the surrounding hilltops.

14. Brno - The largest city in Moravia and the country's counterpoint to Prague, Brno features a lively and strollable old town centre with a hilltop castle and the chance to try out some of the nation's finest pubs.

15. Tábor - A pretty town in South Bohemia, Tábor gets far fewer visitors than it deserves. Its web of cobbled streets are fascinating to explore, and as a bonus there is the colourful Klokoty monastery to visit on the outskirts of town.

16. Mariánské Lázně - A spa which once hosted royalty from across Europe, today this small town continues to draw visitors with its healing waters and beautiful 19th-century architecture.

17. Štramberk - Probably my favourite small town in the country, with a collection of wooden buildings in the distinct Wallachian style spread across a hillside below the round castle tower known as Trúba.

18. Český Ráj - The best hiking within easy reach of the capital, with dramatic sandstone cliffs and formations that create a fascinating environment to trek through.

19. Hradec Králové - A large city in East Bohmemia, with a showpiece main square and an impressive old town. Across the river lies the new town, built in the interwar years in the distinctive Czech style known as Rondo-Cubism.

20. Terezín - Originally a Habsburg-era fortress town, Terezín was put to much darker use during WW2 as a Jewish ghetto used as a transit point en route to the Nazi concentration camps in Poland. A visit to the museum here is an essential stop on a historical tour of the country.

21. Moravian Karst - A landscape of limestone canyons and caves just north of the city of Brno.

22. Slavonice - A small town on the Austrian border with an exceptional collection of sgraffito facades in its two main squares.

23. Lednice - Part of the Lednice-Valtice complex once owned by the Lichtenstein family, the town features a chateau with impressive gardens and a 30-metre minaret to climb.

24. Rožnov Pod Radhoštěm - The finest Skansen (outdoor museum) in the country, with dozens of wooden buildings representing the typical traditional architecture of the mountainous Wallachia region.

25. Plzeň - A large city in West Bohemia which has the Pilsner Urquell brewery as its prime attraction. The Gothic cathedral in the central square has the tallest steeple in the country, which you can climb for a panoramic view.

26. Hluboká nad Vltavou - A mock-Gothic castle in South Bohemia which was supposedly redesigned to resemble England's Windsor castle.

27. Pernštejn Castle - A classic Gothic castle on a wooded hill found north-west of Brno.

28. Litomyšl - A small town in East Bohemia with a beautiful old town and the bizarre Portmoneum. It was also the birthplace of the Czech composer Bedřich Smetana.

29. Šumava National Park - This is the most pristine stretch of mountain wilderness in the country, making it a magnet for visitors who enjoy hiking and outdoor activities.

30. Třeboň - A small walled town in South Bohemia surrounded by a network of carp ponds. The old town core is one of the most architecturally complete in Bohemia.

31. České Budějovice - A large city in South Bohemia which produces the famous Budvar beer. Try a glass while sitting in the picturesque central square.

32. Moravský Krumlov - Home to the Slav Epic paintings by Czech artist Alfons Mucha in the town's chateau. The paintings may soon be moved to Prague, so take the opportunity to see them in their original home before they head off to the big city.

33. Znojmo - A picturesque town perched on the edge of a deep river valley, with impressive Romanesque frescoes in its old town area.

34. Jindřichův Hradec - A small town in South Bohemia with an impressive castle complex.

35. Vranov Nad Dyjí Castle - A castle perched on a clifftop near the Austrian border in South Moravia.

36. Krkonoše Mountains - The best skiing in the country is found here, along with the country's highest mountain, Sněžka.

37. Kokořín Castle - A 14th-century castle which sits among wooded hills and valleys to the north of Prague.

38. Litoměřice - A small town in North Bohemia with an old town containing many picturesque churches.

39. Valtice - The southern town of the Lednice-Valtice complex, featuring the palace which the Lichtenstein family once called home.

40. Kroměříž - A pretty town in South Moravia with a chateau and extensive landscaped gardens.

41. Pardubice - A city in East Bohemia which includes a large palace and old town square containing several buildings with highly decorative facades.

42. Prachatice - A small walled town in South Bohemia with impressive sgraffito facades in its old town centre.

43. Bouzov Castle - A huge Neo-Gothic castle not far from the city of Olomouc.

44. Mělník - A town in North Bohemia which is noted for its wine production as well as its castle perched high above the point where the Vltava and Labe rivers meet.

45. Ride of the Kings Folk Festival in Vlčnov - A folk festival in the Slovacko region of Moravia held each year in May.

46. Červená Lhota Castle - A renaissance-era castle in South Bohemia beautifully situated in the middle of a lake.

47. Liberec - A major city of North Bohemia with a splendid neo-renaissance town hall.

48. Trosky Castle - A castle perched on a narrow blade of rock at the edge of the Český Ráj region.

49. Zvíkov Castle - A striking medieval castle found in South Bohemia.

50. Zelená Hora Pilgrimage Church in Ždár Nad Sazavou - A unique star-shaped structure on a hilltop designed by Giovanni Santini.

51. Český Šternberk Castle - A Gothic castle sitting high above a river valley to the south-east of the capital.

52. The Broumov Walls - A series of sandstone cliffs and unusual rock formations in East Bohemia.

53. Bítov Castle - A hilltop castle located in South Moravia.

54. Svatá Hora Shrine in Příbram - A colourful Marian shrine on a hill in an otherwise drab industrial town in Bohemia.

55. Ještěd Tower - A socialist-era TV tower and hotel near the city of Liberec which has become one of the most recognisable symbols of the Czech lands, at least to the Czechs themselves.

56. Františkovy Lázně - The third of the major spa towns of West Bohemia, with pleasant architecture and a much more relaxed feel than Karlovy Vary.

57. Bezděz Castle - A Gothic ruin perched on a rocky outcrop in North Bohemia.

58. Podyjí National Park - A series or rolling hills and woodlands dotted with various castles and ruins, creating an ideal destination for hiking.

59. Kost Castle - A large castle sitting on top of a column of sandstone in the Český Ráj region.

60. Strážnice Folk Festival - The largest and most popular folk festival in the country, held each year in June.

61. Kuks - A collection of Baroque spa buildings with a fantastic collection of ornate statues.

62. Cheb - A town on the German border in West Bohemia with a beautiful old town centre and an imposing castle.

63. Kladruby Monastery - A Benedictine monastery containing a central church in Romanesque and Gothic style.

64. Orlík Castle - A 19th-century riverside castle with elegant interiors found in South Bohemia.

65. Wooden Churches of the Beskydy Region - Several impressive Roman Catholic wooden churches can be seen in far-east Moravia. The finest is in the village of Guty, near the Polish border.

66. Blatná Castle - A water castle surrounded by an artificial lake found in South Bohemia.

67. Rabí Castle - A large castle ruin in South Bohemia sitting above the village of the same name.

68. Rožmberk Nad Vltavou - A quaint village near Český Krumlov with a huge fortress on a narrow ledge of rock above the Vltava river.

69. Landštejn Castle - A ruined 13th-century structure located near the Austrian border.

70. Holašovice - A village of baroque-style folk architecture in South Bohemia.

71. Pelhřimov - A small medieval town east of Tábor with a well-preserved central square.

72. Domažlice - A pleasant town centred on a long and narrow central square found not far from the German border in West Bohemia.

73. Písek Bridge - An 11th-century stone construction which is even older than Prague's Charles Bridge.

74. Lidice Museum - A small museum which describes the WW2 events in which the Nazis burned the village of Lidice to the ground and shot the inhabitants or sent them off to concentration camps in retaliation for the assassination of Nazi leader Reinhard Heydrich.

75. Buchlov Castle - A Gothic castle in hilly countryside in South Moravia.

76. Jičín - A welcoming town with an arcaded central square and a renaissance palace found in East Bohemia.

77. Nové Město Nad Metují - A small town in East Bohemia with a chateau and perfectly preserved central square.

78. Pustevny - A mountaintop settlement of fairytale wooden cottages painted in bright colours in the eastern Beskydy region of Moravia.

79. Šternberk Castle - A large castle in the town of Šternberk found north of the city of Olomouc.

80. Třebíč - Features one of the most well-preserved Jewish ghettos in the country, as well as a Romanesque basilica.

81. Slavkov (Austerlitz Battlefield) - The location where in 1805 Napoleon's troops defeated the combined forces of Austria and Russia. Today there is a Peace Monument and a museum on the site.

82. Boskovice - A town north of Brno with a fine chateau, castle ruin, Jewish synagogue and a rather unexpected Wild West theme park.

83. The Grave of T.G. Masaryk in Lány - This village to the west of Prague is where the first President of Czechoslovakia is buried, and his grave is a place of pilgrimage for many Czechs. Nearby the grave site is the Czech presidential summer palace.

84. Veltrusy - A beautiful baroque chateau surrounded by gardens and a park north of Prague.

85. Kašperské Hory - A pretty little village in South Moravia which was once a German mining town. The highlights include an eye-catching renaissance town hall and an unusual motorcycle museum.

86. Velké Losiny - A small Moravian spa town featuring an impressive Renaissance-style chateau and a hand-made paper museum.

87. Strakonice Castle - A 13th-century fortress with a round tower in South Bohemia.

88. Broumov Wooden Church - Probably the finest wooden church in the country along with the one in Guty. This is the oldest one in the Czech Republic, dating from the 14th century.

89. Český Kras caves - A region south of the capital with a large number of caves, one of which is officially open to the public, the Koněpruské Jeskyně.

90. Žatec - A pleasant old town in North Bohemia with a museum dedicated to the hops industry and its role in beer production.

91. Nelahozoves - A village just north of Prague with a large chateau and the birthplace museum of the Czech composer Antonín Dvořák.

92. Nový Jičín - A town in north Moravia with an impressive central square with arcaded facades and a hat museum.

93. řip Hill - A hill north of the capital which legend claims was the place where the founding father of the Czech nation, Praotec Čech, declared all the territory which surrounded the hill as the Czech lands. There is a 12th-century rotunda at the top to visit, so climbing the hill is a popular patriotic activity for Czechs.

94. Helfštýn Castle - An excellent hilltop castle ruin in North Moravia, with great hiking in the surrounding hills.

95. Kadaň - A historic town in North Bohemia full of 18th-century buildings and a strikingly unique town hall.

96. Jihlava - An old silver mining town in South Moravia with an attractive old town centre.

97. Sázava - A small town featuring a chateau and an 11th-century monastery high on a plateau above the Sázava river.

98. Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou - A huge and colourful baroque chateau dominates this small town in south Moravia.

99. Kolín - A town to the east of Prague with a 13th-century Gothic church and a beautiful cobbled main square.

100. Náchod - A small town on the Polish border with a beautiful hilltop chateau.

Quirky and Unusual Sights # 2 - The Minaret in Lednice, Czech Republic

The Lednice-Valtice region was once the family home of the Lichtensteins, who began developing the complex in the 18th century. Many pavilions, fountains, statues, arches and castle ruins can be found spread over an area of several hundred square kilometres. In the 19th century the complex was further developed with many structures built between the family's palaces in the towns of Lednice and Valtice. The palace in Lednice is surrounded by a huge landscaped garden, the most unique and outlandish feature of which is the minaret, built in a Moorish-revival style in 1802. At 60 metres high, it was supposedly the tallest minaret outside the Muslim world at the time of its construction. In the early 19th century it was very popular for the European aristocracy to embrace exotic foreign cultures and artistic forms by having palace rooms decorated in Chinese, Japanese or Middle Eastern styles. One story of the minaret's construction claims that Prince Alois Lichtenstein had planned to construct a church in the town of Lednice, but his proposal was rejected by the local municipality. As an act of cheeky defiance, he ordered the construction of the minaret as a substitute. Its construction was led by the architect Hardmuth, who had a difficult task given the extremely swampy ground the structure is built on. This was overcome by driving wooden piles deep into the soil to act as a foundation. The minaret has a wide base structure with turrets and arcades lining the roof, all topped with a crescent moon symbol. The exterior of the lower floor is decorated with textual inscriptions from the Koran written in Arabic script. The lower floor contains eight rooms with Moorish designs painted on the walls. The main tower provides views over the Lednice castle gardens and as far south as Valtice and the Austrian border. Today it is used as a lookout tower and is a popular attraction for visitors to the Lednice palace.

The Lednice-Valtice area is a possible daytrip from Brno, Bratislava or Vienna. Local trains connect it to the nearby town of Břeclav, which is a major rail hub with regular trains to all the surrounding cities and international capitals. The Lednice-Valtice area can also be explored while staying in Mikulov, which is a lovely Czech town a few kilometres west of the region.

Folk Culture Destinations # 1 - Terchová, Slovakia

Terchová is a small town with a big role in Slovak folk culture. Found in northern Slovakia a few kilometres east of the city of Žilina, this was the birthplace of the national hero Juraj Jánošík, an early 18th-century Robin Hood figure who stole from the rich landholders and gave to the poor peasants while becoming a symbol of national resistance. Today a statue of Jánošík overlooks the town from a hilltop, while a small museum contains artifacts and details from his life as an outlaw. Several folk festivals of traditional dance and music are held each year in Terchová, as well as many other traditional cultural events. One of my favourites is the annual high-speed hay cutting championships held in late June. Competitors race to cut a patch of long grass in a field using a scythe in the traditional manner. There are individual time trials for male and female competitors, as well as team events where groups of five must cut larger areas of a field in the fastest possible time. Spectators sing folk songs about working in the fields to encourage the contestants, and they follow the action intensely, since bragging rights for an entire year are on the line. The competitors are mostly locals from Terchová and the surrounding villages plus a few Slovaks from other regions of the country. At the end of each round, the competitors are rewarded for their efforts with a shot of plum brandy and a team of older women dressed in traditional costumes comes out to clean up the freshly cut grass with rakes. An awards ceremony follows at the end of the day with prizes for the winners in each category, while everyone enjoys plates of goulash cooked in a giant kettle over a fire. This is a wonderfully unique event and a great cultural experience to enjoy.

Terchová is easily reached by bus from the city of Žilina, which is on the main train line running through the country with frequent connections to Bratislava and Košice as well as several trains daily to Prague. There are a number of small hotels in Terchová and lots of guesthouses, I've stayed at the Penzion Furmanec several times, but there are many more, including the Penzion Goral, Penzion Terchová, and Penzion Montana.

Wooden Churches # 4 - Šemetkovce, Slovakia

This pretty little church is found on a small wooded hill above the village of Šemetkovce in the Svidník region of eastern Slovakia. It is a Greek-Catholic church named for St. Michael the Archangel, and dates from the year 1752. Like most wooden churches in the region, the structure was built without the use of metal nails using an ingenious woodcut pattern with wooden pegs inserted at the end of each log to hold the beams in place. Another typical feature of Greek-Catholic churches which is found in the Šemetkovce church is the emphasis placed on the number three, symbolising the Holy Trinity. Three domes, three crosses, three rooms in the interior and three doors leading below the iconostasis are all typical features. The three domes rise in height from east to west, with the doorway facing west, also a typical feature of Greek-Catholic design. The iconostasis is of baroque style, designed in the late 18th century, while some of the icons date from the 17th century. The church was badly damaged in World War Two, and extensive reconstruction work was undertaken in 1969 and 1970, and further renovations were necessary in 2001. Standing next to the church there is a tall wooden belfry with bells that are rung daily. The church and belfry were originally surrounded by a log fence, though today there is a more modern metal fence.

The village of Šemetkovce is set in lovely hilly scenery and has a few old-fashioned folk cottages along its laneways. The village can be reached by bus from Svidník just a few times a day from Monday to Friday, and there are no buses on Saturday or Sunday. Another option if you are without your own vehicle is to take the bus from Svidník to Ladomirová (be sure to stop and see the wooden church in that village as well) and then try to hitch-hike the last seven kilometres to Šemetkovce. That's how I did it when I visited, there were no problems getting a lift from some of the locals since the roads are small and everybody knows everybody else in this region.
There are hiking trails which connect together many of the villages with wooden churches in the Svidník region, and it is possible to hike from Šemetkovce across to Kožuchovce village, close to Miroľa village with its wonderful wooden church.

Relics of Communism # 3 - Prague, Czech Republic

In the Royal Garden next to Prague Castle, not far from the Royal Summer Residence, you will find the Royal Ball Game Hall. This building dates from the 16th century and was used by the king's courtiers for sporting activities. The structure was damaged by fire in May 1945 during the last stages of World War Two, but it was fully rebuilt in the 1950's. Along with the many mythological deities that were carefully restored on the facade, a small addition was made that remains as a quirky reminder of the communist period. A figure unfurling a scroll meant to be a five-year plan with a hammer and sickle was included in the design, together with the letters 'ČSR', for Czechoslovak Socialist Republic. This is a detail that you have to look closely to find (it's along the top row of the facade near the roof), so be sure to stop and take a closer look if you are visiting Prague Castle.

Sign Spotting # 3 - Čičmany, Slovakia

This menu qualifies as a vegetarian's worst nightmare - this is the vegetarian section, yet practically every item has some kind of meat in it. Bacon, sausage, ham... still vegetarian. It's a common sight in restaurant menus in rural parts of Slovakia, since a dish that contains meat but not as the primary ingredient is often still considered to be a 'vegetarian' option. Show this to any vegetarians you know to give them a fright... :)

Classic Castles # 2 - Gýmeš, Slovakia

This large castle ruin sits on a wooded hilltop above the village of Jelenec in the Tribeč mountains, about 20 kilometres north-east of the city of Nitra. The current structure dates from around 1270, when it was constructed as a Gothic palace, although it was built on the site of an earlier fort. The first owners were the Forgách family, who controlled the castle for several centuries. A peasant revolt against worsening living conditions and increased taxes in 1610 had to be suppressed by force by the Forgáchs. The Ottoman Turkish armies conquered the castle in 1530 and caused significant damage to it, and it was conquered again by the Turks in 1663. Following this period it was fully reconstructed and it remained in use up until the mid-19th century, when it was abandoned and slowly fell into ruin. Today many parts of the structure remain intact, including several tunnels, standing arches and a chapel. The castle is slowly being reclaimed by the forest, and large trees are growing all through the structure.

The castle can be reached on foot following the walking trail from the village of Jelenec, it's about a one hour walk up through the forest. Another access point is from the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom, which is considerably closer to the castle and has a path leading there that requires a hike of about 45 minutes. In the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom there is an another worthwhile attraction to stop and see, the 11th century Romanesque church of St. George, which features design elements typical of the Great Moravian Empire period. Both Jelencec and Kostoľany pod Tribečom are accessible by bus from Nitra, with regular buses stopping in Jelenec which is near the main road heading east towards Banská Bystrica.