Wooden Churches # 16 - Kožany, Slovakia

The small village of Kožany lies in rolling countryside surrounded by fields and forests in a remote region of north-eastern Slovakia, between the towns of Bardejov and Svidník. This small Greek-Catholic church sits on a low hill at the western end of the village, with views across the surrounding farmland.

Dedicated to the Lord's Meeting with Simeon, the church was constructed in the second half of the 18th century by local builders. The three-roomed structure sits on a low stone foundation and features a bell tower above the entrance area. Three bells are kept in the tower and the oldest was cast in 1406, making it one of the oldest church bells to be found in Slovakia.

The inerior of the nave contains colourful paintings on the wooden walls, a unique feature among the timber churches in this region. The paintings were created between 1793 and 1797 and depict many scenes from both the Old and New Testaments. A Last Judgement icon on canvas, painted in the the late 18th century, is one of the most precious works found in the church.

The iconostasis dates from the beginning of the 18th century, and here again is a unique feature, since instead of a Czar door and two Deacon doors at the sides, there is a main Czar door and only one side Deacon door, likely because of the narrow width of the nave. The bars placed over the windows on the exterior of the church are another unique feature, since they are made of hand-crafted wrought iron and are as old as the church itself.

The key for the church is kept by a family which lives in a house several doors down from the church on the same side of the road. They charge a small entrance fee and have some books and pamphlets about the wooden churches in the region available for sale.

Getting to Kožany by public transport is possible, since there are several buses per day on weekdays which go to the village from Bardejov's main bus station (fewer on Saturdays and Sundays). Getting to Bardejov is easiest by bus from Prešov, Poprad or Košice, all of which have transport connections throughout the country.

Day Trips from Košice, Slovakia - The Top 25 Destinations

Eastern Slovakia has an astonishing number of attractions packed into a very small geographical area, with towering mountains, rustic red-roofed towns, castles, caves and wooden churches all waiting to be explored. Košice is by far the largest city in the eastern half of Slovakia and it has a range of impressive sights to see in and around its well-preserved central square and the Cathedral of Saint Elisabeth. For those visitors who would like to base themselves in the city for a few days to use it as a base for day trips into the surrounding countryside, I have put together a list of the best places that can be visited in a single day. I have given each destination a star rating out of five to provide an idea of how worthwhile they are to visit, and the destinations are organized by distance into three categories - within one hour of travel from Košice by public transport, within two hours, and within three hours. The pictures in this article show, from top to bottom, The High Tatra Mountains, Betliar Chateau, Bardejov old town square, Markušovce Chateau, and Spiš Castle.

Destinations Within One Hour of Travel from Košice:

** Jasov Monastery and cave - (40 minutes) By bus from Košice main station to the town of Jasov; the cave is at the base of the hillside near the southern end of the town

** Herľany Geyser - (45 minutes) By bus from Košice to the village of Herľany

** Prešov - (35 minutes) By train from Košice main station

** Veľký Šariš castle and Šariš brewery - (50 minutes to 1 hour) By train or bus from Košice main station, sometimes changing to another bus or train in Prešov is required

* Slanec Castle - (35 minutes) By bus or train from Košice main station

Destinations Within Two Hours of Travel from Košice:

***** Spiš Castle - (1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes) By bus from Košice main station to Prešov, then change to a second bus to the town of Spišské Podhradie. You can't miss the castle on the hill, it dominates the landscape for miles around

***** The High Tatra Mountains - (1 hour 50 minutes) By train from Košice main station to Poprad, then change to the mountain railway to reach Starý Smokovec. From there you can take the funicular up to Hrebienok which is the starting point for many possible day hikes in the Tatras. Start early if you are going to travel to and from Košice in a day

**** Levoča - (1 hour 45 minutes) By bus from Košice main station to Prešov, then change to a second bus to reach Levoča

**** Bardejov - (1 hour 50 minutes) By bus from Košice main station

**** Krásna Hôrka Castle - (1 hour 15 minutes) By bus from Košice main station to the village of Krásnohorské Podhradie, the castle is clearly visible on the hill above the town

**** Slovak Paradise National Park - (1 hour 25 minutes to 1 hour 50 minutes) By train from Košice main station to Spišská Nová Ves, then by bus to the village of Čingov which is the starting point for many hikes into the park

*** Kežmarok - (1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours) By train from Košice main station to Poprad, then change to a bus or train to reach Kežmarok. The bus and train stations are next to each other in Poprad

*** Gombasek Cave in the Slovak Karst National Park - (1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours) By bus from Košice main station to Rožňava, then change to a second bus to the village of Slavec and get out at the stop along the highway after the village at the turning point for the road to Silica village. From the bus stop take the trail to Gombasecka cave, it's about 1 kilometre

*** Betliar Chateau - (1 hour 20 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes) By bus from Košice main station to Rožňava, then change to a second bus to reach Betliar village

*** Spišská Sobota - (1 hour 15 minutes) By train from Košice main station to Poprad; Spišská Sobota is a historic village on the edge of Poprad, about a 20-minute walk east from the train station

** Markušovce Chateau - (1 hour 15 minutes) By regional train from Košice main station to the village of Markušovce

** Tročany wooden church (1 hour 20 minutes) By bus from Košice main station to the village of Janovce, then it's a 1.5 kilometre walk along the local road to reach Tročany village

** Brežany wooden church - (1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes) By bus or train from Košice main station to Prešov, then change to a bus to reach Brežany

Destinations Within Three Hours of Travel from Košice:

**** Dobšinská Ice Cave - (2 hours 30 minutes) By train from Košice main station, changing to a second train in Margecany

*** Bardejovské Kúpele spa and outdoor folk architecture museum - (2 hours 5 minutes) By bus from Košice main station

*** Stará Ľubovňa Castle and outdoor architecture museum - (2 hours 15 minutes) By bus from Košice main station; the castle and outdoor museum are 1.5 kilometres north of the bus station in Stará Ľubovňa

*** Domica Cave in the Slovak Karst National Park - (2 hours 15 minutes to 2 hours 40 minutes) - By bus from Košice main station to the village of Plešivec, then change to a second bus to the village of Kečovo and get out at the stop next to the cave (before the village) called Kečovo Domica. From the Domica cave it's a 2 kilometre walk across the border into Hungary to Aggtelek village and the Aggtelek Karst caves, which are equally impressive

*** Ochtinská Argonite Cave - (2 hours 5 minutes to 2 hours 20 minutes) By bus from Košice main station to the village of Gočaltovo and get off past the village at the stop called Gočaltovo Hradok. From there it's a two-kilometre walk up into the hills to the cave entrance

** Svidník folk architecture museum - (2 hours 10 minutes) By bus from Košice main station

** Humenné folk architecture museum - (2 hours to 2 hours 15 minutes) By bus from Košice main station

The Top 25 Day Trips From Brno, Czech Republic

Brno is an increasingly popular city break destination and starting point for travel in Central Europe due to the budget airlines which now frequent its airport. While it lacks the world-class sights and attractions of the Czech capital Prague, Brno has enough to amuse the average visitor for a day or two, and the surrounding region of South Moravia contains a veritable smorgasbord of tasty attractions to sample. Gothic castles, folk architecture, limestone caves and UNESCO heritage sites are all within reach and still receive far fewer international visitors than they deserve. I have listed some of the best of these destinations here and given them a star rating out of five to suggest how worthwhile they are to visit. The destinations are also organized into three categories - destinations which are less than one hour by public transport from Brno, less than two hours, and less than three hours. Three hours is quite a long distance for a day trip, but if time is short, it can be worth making a longer excursion to see one of the region's best attractions such as Telč. It is also possible to visit destinations across the border in Slovakia and Austria, including the capitals Bratislava and Vienna. The photos included in this article show, from top to bottom, Telč, Mikulov, Kromeříž, Lednice, and Pernštejn castle.

Destinations Within One Hour of Travel from Brno:

**** Moravian Karst - (45 minutes) By train from Brno main station to Blansko, then change to a bus from Blansko main bus station to the stop called Skalní Mlyn which is the access point for the caves and hikes in the surrounding region

**** Lednice - (50 minutes to 1 hour) By train from Brno main station to Břeclav, than change to a bus from Břeclav main bus station to reach Lednice

*** Pernštejn Castle - (1 hour) By train from Brno main station to Tišnov, change to a local train to reach Nedvědice, then follow the yellow-marked trail through the forest for 2 kilomtres to reach the castle

*** Moravský Krumlov - (50 minutes) By train from Brno main station

** Boskovice - (40 minutes to 50 minutes) By train from Brno main station

** Veveří Castle - (40 to 50 minutes) Take tram #1 from outside Brno main train station to the stop called Přístaviště, then change to a bus to reach the castle

** Slavkov u Brna (Battle of Austerlitz site) - (25 minutes) By train from Brno main station, or by bus from Brno Zvonařka station

* Dolní Kounice - (40 minutes to 55 minutes) By bus from Brno Zvonařka station, change to a second bus in Modřice to reach Dolní Kounice

Destinations Within Two Hours of Travel from Brno:

***** Vienna, Austria - (2 hours) By train from Brno main station

**** Bratislava, Slovakia - (1 hour 30 minutes) By EC train from Brno main station

**** Olomouc - (1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours) By train from Brno main station

**** Mikulov - (1 hour 5 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes) By direct bus from Zvonařka station, or by train from Brno main station to Břeclav and then change to a local train to Mikulov

*** Litomyšl - (1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours) By bus from Brno Zvonařka station

*** Kromeříž - (1 hour 30 minutes) By train from Brno main station to Kojetín, then change to a local train to Kromeříž

*** Valtice - (1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes) By train to Břeclav, then change to a local train to reach Valtice

*** Znojmo - (1 hour 10 minutes) By bus from Zvonařka station

** Ždar nad Sazavou - (1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes) By train from Brno main station

** Stražnice - (1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours) By train from Brno main station, change trains in Hodonín or Veselí nad Moravou to reach Stražnice

** Třebič - (1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 35 minutes) By train from Brno main station

Destinations Within Three Hours of Travel from Brno:

**** Telč - (2 hours to 2 hours 25 minutes) By bus from Brno Zvonařka station

*** Vranov nad Dyjí Castle - (2 hours to 2 hours 15 minutes) By bus from Brno Zvonařka station to Znojmo, then change to another bus to reach Vranov nad Dyjí village

** Velké Losiny - (2 hours 45 minutes) By train from Brno main station to Šumperk, then change to a local train to reach Velké Losiny

** Skalica, Slovakia - (2 hours to 2 hours 10 minutes) By train from Brno main station to Kúty, then change to a local train to reach Skalica

** Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou - (2 hours 20 minutes) By train from Brno main station to Okříšky, then change to a local train to reach Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou

* Zlin - (2 hours 5 minutes) By bus from Brno Zvonařka station

Beautiful Towns # 6 - Slavonice, Czech Republic

Located just one kilometre from the Austrian border and surrounded by rolling green hills, Slavonice is one of the most captivating small towns in the Czech Republic. Since it is still off the radar for most international tourists, the town retains a relaxed provincial feel fused with a dose of artistic and cultural flair due to the many Czech artists who have taken up residence and opened studios and galleries in the historic buildings. Found at the point where the historical regions of Moravia, Bohemia and Austria meet, the town has traditionally been considered part of Moravia but today it is included in the region of South Bohemia.

With two squares jam-packed with ornate buildings smothered in sgraffito facades and nary a concrete building in sight, it's easy to see why Slavonice is a cut above the average Czech border town. The facades are the most impressive and extensive to be found on Czech soil, and they are among the finest anywhere in the former lands of the Austro-Hungarian empire.

The town went through a prolonged period of riches and prosperity lasting from the 14th to 16th centuries with its place on the main trading route between Prague and Vienna guaranteeing a steady stream of commerce to fund the construction of grand renaissance buildings. However, the main trade route was eventually moved to the east passing through the Czech frontier town of Znojmo, and the boom times came to a close in Slavonice.

The town's population was predominantly German-speaking before World War II, but the end of the war brought the mass expulsion of the German population from the Czech lands and the population of Slavonice dropped to a fraction of its former size. During the Communist period from 1948 to 1989 Czechs were not encouraged to resettle in the houses left vacant by the former German inhabitants, so the town became a ghostly shell of its former self.

Under the Communists the frontier with Austria was a highly restricted military zone as part of the iron curtain, and as a result Slavonice was essentially cocooned and prevented from growing or developing. Today this can be considered a blessing, since it effectively protected the town from having any ugly and tasteless concrete buildings constructed in its midst by Communist planners.

Nowadays, Slavonice has developed a strong reputation as a haven for Czech artists and writers who wish to escape to a beautiful corner of the countryside for creative inspiration far from the capital. There are several studios and workshops which have set up shop, and international artists, especially from Austria, have taken notice and begun to frequent the town as well.

In the early 1990's both Slavonice and the nearby town of Telč were promoting themselves as potential UNESCO heritage site candidates, but at the last minute the town council in Slavonice decided to withdraw its bid, so only Telč was placed on the UNESCO list in 1992. I expect that the townsfolk and artists in Slavonice simply decided that they preferred to keep their town low-key and liveable, and to let Telč handle the tour buses and mainstream international attention.

Slavonice is becoming increasingly popular with cyclists, and it features prominently in organized cycling trips across the country. It is possible to walk, cycle or drive the one kilometre south to the border, and from there the Austrian village of Fratres is less than one kilometre further on. Getting to Slavonice by public transport is easiest by train coming from Jihlava (passing through Telč on the way), though buses also connect the town to Jindřichův Hradec, Jihlava and Prague. While taking the two-carriage regional train south from Jihlava it feels like you're approaching the ends of the earth, and when the train pulls into the station in Slavonice it is truly the end of the line, with the Austrian frontier within sight.

Classic Castles # 4 - Červená Lhota, Czech Republic

This picturesque Renaissance chateau stands on a rocky outcrop in the middle of a small lake in South Bohemia, about 100 kilometres south of Prague. The bright red colour of its exterior is directly reflected in the name of the castle, since the word 'červená' means 'red'. A small garden is found in front of the chateau on the island, and the lake is surrounded by a park with walking trails which provide excellent views of the castle from every angle.

The castle was first constructed in the Gothic style in the 14th century, and at that time there was no lake surrounding it, merely a river. In the 16th century a dam was constructed in the river which created the lake and left the castle perched on its island outcrop, increasing its defensive capabilities and romantic appeal.

The castle became known as Červena Lhota in the 17th century, when the facade was painted bright red and red tiles were placed on the roof. The stone bridge which connects the castle to the mainland was built in 1622, replacing the drawbridge which had been in use up to that point.

Towards the end of the 18th century the German composer Karl Ditters von Dittersdorf (a close friend of Mozart) lived in the castle and died there in 1799. A major renovation in the early 1900's changed the appearance of the castle to its present Neo-Renaissance style. At the end of World War II, the castle's Austrian owners were expelled and the property was confiscated by the Czechoslovak government. In 1949 the castle was opened to the public as a cultural monument.

The castle is quite difficult to reach by public transport, with limited bus connections making it possible to visit only on weekdays. Buses from Soběslav take about 30 minutes and will drop you 100 metres from the lake and the castle. Soběslav is on the main rail line between Prague and České Budějovice, with frequent train connections to both cities. The historic town of Jindřichův Hradec is found to the south-east of the castle, but there are no regular public transport connections from there to Červená Lhota.

Like most attractions outside major cities in the Czech Republic, the castle is closed from November to March and is only open on weekends in April and October. From May to September it is open daily except Mondays. Tours of the castle interior last 50 minutes and take in rooms which are brightly decorated in historical styles.

A large restaurant is located directly across the stone bridge from the castle, offering all the typical Czech traditional dishes. During the summer months renting a rowboat and going out on the lake is a relaxing way to spend an hour or two. Horse and carriage rides are also a popular attraction in the park and castle grounds.

Wooden Churches # 15 - Kunčice pod Ondřejníkem, Czech Republic

This beautiful church now stands on a small hill in the village of Kunčice pod Ondřejníkem in the Beskydy region of northern Moravia. The story of its history begins far to the east in present-day Ukraine in the region of Subcarpathian Ruthenia, a territory which was part of Czechoslovakia between the two world wars in the early 20th century. It was constructed in the small Rusyn village of Hlinance at the end of the 17th century or the first years of the 18th century, and was consecrated as a Greek Catholic church dedicated to the Archangel Michael. By the early 20th century the church was in very poor condition and was replaced by a modern church in the village.

At this time the wealthy owner of a mining company in Ostrava, Eduard Šebela, approached the villagers of Hlinance and offered to buy the church and have it moved to Kunčice pod Ondřejníkem where he had his summer retreat near the Beskydy mountains. Records show that Šebela paid 24000 Czech crowns for the church, but this was likely the cost of having it dismantled and transported by rail to the site in Kunčice rather than a payment to the villagers.

Following its reconstruction in the new location in northern Moravia, the church was reconsecrated and dedicated to St. Prokop and St. Barbara, the patron saints of miners, reflecting the business interests of the new owner. The church was then used as the location for the wedding of Šebela's daughter.

By the 1980's the church was again in poor condition, but it underwent extensive renovation in the early 1990's. The interior of the church contains the original iconostasis, which was carefully restored by specialists in 1992. The church was broken into by thieves in 1994 and again in 1995, with the loss of several icons, paintings and a tabernacle.

The interior of the church can only be seen during services and other special events, but a visit to the church and its surrounding cemetery is still very worthwhile at other times. The village of Kunčice pod Ondřejníkem is reachable by train directly from Ostrava or the nearby town of Frenštát pod Radhoštěm, which has onward train connections to many parts of the Czech Republic.

Beautiful Towns # 5 - Čicmany, Slovakia

The village of Čičmany is located in hilly, forested countryside in Žilina region in western Slovakia. It lies in a forested valley among the Strážov mountains, close to the source of the Rajčianka river, and today has less than 400 inhabitants. The settlement is renowned for the local tradition of painting white geometric patterns on its dark wooden cottages. These folk patterns are based on the local lacework designs used on fabric and clothing.

The village also has unique folk costumes, songs and dances which have all been carefully preserved and are still practiced today. A local folklore group performs music and dances at special events throughout the year, and there and a number of cultural events organized in the summer months.

Fires which occurred in 1907, 1921 and 1945 destroyed many of the folk cottages but most of them were repeatedly rebuilt in the traditional manner. The fire in 1921 was especially serious, burning down more than half of the cottages in the village. Special funding was provided by the Czechoslovak government to rebuild most of the houses.

The history of the village begins in 1272, when it was recorded as a settlement with a newly-built road. There are several competing theories about the founding of the village, the main ones being that the original inhabitants were German settlers, or that they were Bulgarian immigrants fleeing from the Turks who came north and settled in the region.

The traditional occupations of Čičmany residents were farming and sheep herding, and sheep's cheese was produced and sold throughout the region. The origin of the name "Čičmany", meaning 'homestead in the hills', probably comes from an ancient Indo-European word which was incorporated into the Old Slavonic language.

Through the centuries the village had many different feudal landlords, but by the start of the 20th century most of the land was owned by two Hungarian families. It was difficult for the peasant farmers to make a living in this region, and emigration, especially to North America, became a common choice for many. Other local families moved to France, Belgium and Austria in search of greater prosperity.

Living in the pretty cottages of the village was not always comfortable in the past - before the 20th century it was quite common to have three or even four generations of a family living together under one roof, sometimes up to 20 people in one building. Only one main room would have been heated by a stove in the winter, and the younger members of the family would have their beds in the upper attic while the oldest generation slept nearest to the wood stove for extra warmth.

The gingerbread-style decorations which cover the wooden beams of the cottages were painted with a mixture composed of white lime. The painting process was intended to conserve and protect the wooden beams in addition to its attractive appearance. The custom is thought to have begun more than 200 years ago, and their are several explanations for where the idea came from, including Bulgarian folk customs.

Another theory about the founding of the village and the origin of the cottage decorations says that during the time of the Tatar raids from the east in the 13th century local Slavic peasants sought safety up in this remote mountain region. Well-protected and isolated from the outside world, the peasants established a community in the valley and kept sheep and cattle. The women of the village created embroidery designs for their clothing with folk symbols that represented their way of life.

These embroidery symbols were then added to the cottages, perhaps in the hope that the symbols would bring good fortune to the cottage occupants. The symbols seen on the cottages today include arrows, clovers, hearts, crosses and several different kinds of animals. Until the devastating fire of 1921, most of the cottages in the village had two floors, but today only one example of this type of structure still exists in the settlement.

Many painted cottages were again destroyed during World War Two, when German soldiers set part of the village on fire. Another large rebuilding project began afterwards, including repainting the decorative white patterns on the logs of the buildings.

One of my favourite experiences in Čičmany is walking the streets of the lower part of the village at night when the lantern shrines are lit; two Catholic shrines on street corners are lit by candles which can be seen far off down the lane as a yellow glow to guide you past the painted cottages whose white patterns are dimly visible in the dark.

Another worthwhile experience is to climb the hill to the east of the village at dusk to get a view of the pattern made by the jumble of rooftops with the white church standing out above them. You can also look for a unique Catholic cross which is along one of the hiking trails a short distance to the east; it is surrounded by four large trees which must have been intentionally planted around it more than a century ago.

In the winter the snow can be knee-deep, and the local ski resort of Javorinka on a nearby hill becomes a popular destination with locals. In the summer months the slopes of Javorinka are used by cyclists and as a launching area for paragliding and hang gliding. Mushroom picking in the surrounding forests is another favourite local activity.

Nowadays all of the lower part of the village is a protected folk architecture reserve, with 110 listed heritage buildings including 36 which have the status of national monuments. Plans were created to establish the reserve in 1974, and it became the world's first such protected village three years later.

Two of the cottages are open to the public as a museum of traditional life, with exhibits on the history and culture of the village. Tickets are available in Radenov house, the large cottage with two floors, and the second cottage with indoor displays is the one directly across the street. There is also a small craft shop selling locally produced products such as embroidery and a few souvenirs.

There are several different accommodation options in the village, and staying for the night is highly recommended so that you can experience the village fully. The Penzion Javorina offers comfortable rooms in the middle of the village and has its own restaurant serving all the traditional Slovak dishes. There are several other cottages which are available for rent, though these are usually intended for larger groups of people staying for at least a weekend or longer.

There are hiking trails leading off into the hills in every direction from Čičmany, leading to valleys with other remote villages. Some of these villages have decorated cottages, but none have designs as unique or impressive as those found in Čicmany. A good day hike from Čičmany can be made heading west on the red-marked trail to the village of Zliechov, stopping for the views from the peak called Strážov on the way. From Zliechov it's possible to take a green-marked trail north and then a yellow-marked trail east to return to Čičmany in a loop. This circle route takes about 5.5 hours in total, so bring a lunch for a picnic somewhere along the trail. Zliechov has a small local pub where it is possible to get beer, water and light snacks.

Getting to Čičmany by public transport is easiest by bus from the city of Žilina, which is on the main train line across Slovakia with direct connections to Bratislava and Prague. Buses go directly to the village from Žilina several times per day from Monday to Friday (50 minutes), though less frequently on Saturdays and Sundays.

Many more buses travel along the main road from Žilina to Prievidza which can drop you off at the turning point for the small local road up into the hills to Čičmany. If you take the bus and ask to get off at this turn off point, it's about a seven kilometre walk in along the road to the village, or you can try to hitchhike with locals to cover this distance. Another good option is to get off one stop further along the main road where a scenic hiking trail (follow the red markers) leads over the hills to Čičmany, taking about 2.5 to 3 hours.